on the break pedal to get this beast to stop .. So i changed the front shoes and noticed its still hard to stop .. When i use 2 feet on the pedal it stops .. I was told by numerous people that i need to bleed my brakes . Was curious of how to do so ..and if i should change out my brake fluid?? thank you|||Sorry to change the subject but a 65 Dodge Coronet is a keeper. I wish I had one. The first answer is correct on the brake issue.|||Old Man Dirt has given you the best info.
If the brakes are manual brakes, no booster, they are going to feel hard and if you%26#039;ve never driven non-power brakes they are going to feel like they are not working.
A complete adjustment and bleeding of the system would probably be a good idea, the order would be RR, LR, RF, LF, always start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder when you bleed brakes. Be sure and keep the master cylinder full as you bleed the brakes. Bleeders at the wheel cylinder will break off so be prepared for that possibility, nothing you%26#039;ve done wrong, they%26#039;re just old and rusty.|||Do you feel like the brakes are working better after you pump them a few times. If so the brakes need bleed. If the car has power brakes, then the boost cylinder may be shot or not hooked up. A quick test for this is to depress the brakes firmly, start the engine. The brake pedal should move towards the floor. If not, then suspect the boost system. This consists of a booster on the master, a vacuum canister and tubing to connect the system to the intake manifold. So, not only can the booster fail, but the lines can rot, the canister rust out, but the engine may not be pulling a vacuum.
Make sure the drum brakes are adjusted right, there should be a slight resistance felt as the wheel is turned.
Bleeding the brakes requires a bleeder wrench, a piece of hose, a container, spare brake fluid and two people unless a one man bleeder is use. One person holds the pedal down while the other opens the bleeder and closes it, at which time the person holding the brake down releases it and depresses it again. This precess goes on until the air is out of the line. The hose is placed on the bleeder nipple and inserted into the container (partly filled with brake fluid) so that it can be determined if air is still coming out of the system. start with the brake farthest from the master. Speed bleeders have a check valve in them so opening and closing the bleeder is not needed and one person can do the job.
Care must be taken to keep the brake system with spare fluid at all times and also to keep the fluid off of paint.|||That%26#039;s an old model and you have to be careful loosening the bleeder screws, they will break off very easily. If they do you will need to replace cylinder on rear calipers on the front. This can run into some money. If they do break its possible to get them out with an %26quot;easy out%26quot; Your auto parts person should know what size you need. Before starting to remove the bleeders make sure you use liquid wrench. The cylinders are about ten dollars each the calipers are more but,they break less often. Be careful. If you don%26#039;t know how to bleed them you might want to get help. If not done properly, you could get into an accident. It%26#039;s not a job you want to do half a**ed.|||You may bleed the brakes till you are blue in the face and it may not work...If they are power assist drums you may have other issues...Your booster may be bad...My 67 plymouth had power 4 wheel drum brakes...The booster was bad...It cost about 300.00 to have the booster rebuilt...I just went for a complete disc brake conversion and cured all my problems...There is a company called just suspension..they have come out with a big bore master cylinder..You can run your brakes with no booster...|||It%26#039;s best done with two people. Most repair manuals should have a section on this. If bleeding the the brakes doesn%26#039;t work, I would suggest looking at replacing the master cylinder. And if you actually have a power booster I would also check that.|||has power brakes?
brake booster not working that what make pedal easy to push
soft pedal need bleeding
or adjusting of brake shoes
to adjust brakes up with wheel on spin by hand if its easy to turn needs adjusting til u can hardy spin it with two fingers
check your rear brakes
type into searchbox
how to adjust drum brakes
how to bleed brakes
how to check brake booster|||It%26#039;s the booster. If they needed bled they would just go to the floor and the pedal wouldn%26#039;t require that kind of pressure.|||it more than likely has no power brakes and is normal,i have a 66 dodge coronet 500
