I changed the rear brakes (shoe type) on my Corolla about a month ago. The mechanic (Merlins auto) charged $320 for a set of new pads and 2 new hubs and associated springs etc etc. I have been hearing a tapping noise everytime I hit the brakes since then. The noise comes from the new rear brakes and the intensity of tapping depends on the speed. Normally there are no vibrations in the brake peddle, but I think I feel some vibrations when applying brakes at highway speeds. I have taken the car back to the shop 5 times for this. He adjusted the brakes a couple of times. Then replaced the hubs, although I dont know why... because the hubs were new anyway. Now he is saying that there is no problem with the brakes and I should just ignore the noise. I dont believe him! How can I ignore the noise that was not present before and is not supposed to be!
Would any of you guys have an idea what wrong with the brakes?|||could be that the incorrect parts were installed some cars came with several brake parts optional
Sunday 5 June 2011
Ihow dow you change the back brakes on a 1994 ford tauras?
i dont know how to change them.someone told me that it was inside the shoe is that true?can someone tell me the easy way of doing this w/o spending a lot of money? thanks|||Spend $18 on a chilton%26#039;s or hayne%26#039;s manual for your vehicle. You can get them at your local autozone or checker.
What causes a grabbing noise like after changing the front brake pads on a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan?
It was making like a grabbing noise ( don%26#039;t know how to explain it) every time you stepped on the brakes. Replaced the front brake shoes (which was worn down and needed to be replaced) Took it for a test drive and now that noise is alot louder then what it was before. It is coming from the passenger front side. I noticed on that right side rotor passengers side it had some grooves in the rotor. Which means that the brakes been down to far. But anyway the new shoes should wear in where it shouldn%26#039;t make any noise but still does. Got over 50 miles on the new brake shoes. Would the wheel bearing be going out on that side? That is my only thought now.|||There has been a rash of bad pads on the market recently. Some pads emit a gas when heated up just a little. Essentially Fart ing out between the pads and rotors making a horrible groan at very low speeds.
Drum brake question?
How do i get the drums off when when the little screw holes are rusted out? i believe previous owners never changed the shoes or drums so the drums are pretty rusted, any ideas on how to get it off?|||spray some penetrating oil where the drum meets the axle,clean up the rust on the axle-sand paper/file/wire brush- parking brake off-using two screw drivers,slot near bottom center drum, use one screw driver to release self adjuster pawl,use second screw driver to back off star wheel adjuster retracting brake shoes-drum should come off,might require some careful taps with a hammer to get past rust on axle|||you maight need an impact screwdriver to unfasten screws, or a really good hammer, you can even use a centre punch to tap them round if the slots have worn away,
make sure handbrake cable is slackened and let loose with hammer, dont be afraid to use,it, its standard proceedure !|||Not Sure What Screw Holes You Are Talking About Unless You Mean The Ones In The Drum , But as A Rule They Have To Be Beaten On With A Hammer Until They Start To Pull Off, If You Are Not Sure Take Them To A Shop Or Find A Friend Who Knows How To Do It, They Can Be Easy Or Very-Very Hard To Get Off|||First just bang it from behind W/ a rubber mallet, the br. shoes are whats holding it, make sure the E-Brake is off,if that wont work then try to scrape off the rust around the threaded holes, and pour br fluid over the whole drum around the lug studs then let it soak, start a bolt in into the holes, ID remember what size they are tho.then just tighten one on each side and it should pop right off,, and change and flush all the br. fluid it prob. looks like molasses,,right?|||With rear drum brakes, as a rule, the drums come straight off when the wheels are removed; they should not be separated from the hubs. If the brake shoes have worn down their inner surfaces a little, they will hang up on the shoes. Try releasing hydraulic pressure a little by releasing a bit of fluid with the bleed valves behind the wheels. Then grasp opposite sides of the drums and pull with a rocking motion.|||99% of the time to get a rusty drum off you have to hit it with a hammer. but when you hit it you absolutely MUST NOT hit the fins. these are for heat transfer among other things. you have to hit the little flat area just above these. this will usually knock it loose.
make sure handbrake cable is slackened and let loose with hammer, dont be afraid to use,it, its standard proceedure !|||Not Sure What Screw Holes You Are Talking About Unless You Mean The Ones In The Drum , But as A Rule They Have To Be Beaten On With A Hammer Until They Start To Pull Off, If You Are Not Sure Take Them To A Shop Or Find A Friend Who Knows How To Do It, They Can Be Easy Or Very-Very Hard To Get Off|||First just bang it from behind W/ a rubber mallet, the br. shoes are whats holding it, make sure the E-Brake is off,if that wont work then try to scrape off the rust around the threaded holes, and pour br fluid over the whole drum around the lug studs then let it soak, start a bolt in into the holes, ID remember what size they are tho.then just tighten one on each side and it should pop right off,, and change and flush all the br. fluid it prob. looks like molasses,,right?|||With rear drum brakes, as a rule, the drums come straight off when the wheels are removed; they should not be separated from the hubs. If the brake shoes have worn down their inner surfaces a little, they will hang up on the shoes. Try releasing hydraulic pressure a little by releasing a bit of fluid with the bleed valves behind the wheels. Then grasp opposite sides of the drums and pull with a rocking motion.|||99% of the time to get a rusty drum off you have to hit it with a hammer. but when you hit it you absolutely MUST NOT hit the fins. these are for heat transfer among other things. you have to hit the little flat area just above these. this will usually knock it loose.
How often do brake pads need to be changed?
I have a 96 Windstar. I bought it last month. I have maintainence records saying the front brake pads, calipers and rotors and back brake shoes, drums ect were replaced. That was three years ago at 108,000 miles. I bought it with 118,000 on it. Is it time to change them again? The brake light is on. My Step dad is going to do it this weekend I was just curious as to how often they should be changed, for future reference. Thank you.|||With only 10,000 miles on those brakes, this is not a normal condition. The Brake light coming on is an indication that your reservoir is low and has turned on the warning light. With the ABS also on, I suggest you have it looked at by a qualified technician. This is not a normal situation and it may be just a low fluid condition or numerous other possibilities.Typical brake life is around 25,000 to 30,000 miles of average driving with out any faults in the system. Good Luck|||brake light or ABS light?
if ABS then its something with the abs system be it wheel sensors, control computer, or abs unit.
brake pads tend to last average of 40k miles in normal driving, you ride your brakes or tow a lot or slam on your brakes a lot and they%26#039;ll wear down a lot faster.|||well it all depends on how much u drive. u can tell by looking at the break pad and seeing how much is left on them u want no less then a half inch or else u could ruin ur rotors|||Have the system inspected. There should be no need to replace brakes after only 10K miles. If you have work done, do NOT take any parts to be machined at AutoZone. They are staffed by people who do not know %26quot;diddly%26quot; about cars.|||You remove the wheel, look at the pads, if there is only 1/8%26quot; or 3 mm left they need replacing.
to give you some idea where they are up to they are about 5/8%26quot; or 16 mm thick when new.
I just changed mine for the 1st time at 56000 miles. If yours need replacing after 10000, either you have something wrong with your set up and they are rubbing (using lots more fuel as well)
Or someone was telling lies!!!!!|||Well whenever you have your car serviced, varies with different cars, usually around 20k miles, you should check your brake pads/shoes for wear. If they seem fine and have no squeak or pull towards any side then they%26#039;re okay :)|||Shouldn%26#039;t I have 74 thou on my GMC and still have the same pads, have him check the master cylinder, as this can cause the light to come on, also ck to make sure the light does not say ABS as this is a totally different problem, and when he does look at the pads, make sure the calipers, which push the pads to the rotors are not sticking, and one other thing, have him take the rotors to autozone and have them machined and ck that they have not warped due to heat, something is abnormal, these are the things I would look at.|||they need to be changed every time they wear out or become cracked.|||There are many reasons brake pads last up to 80,000 miles and still others 10,000 miles. Vehicle weight, type of pads and where you do most of your driving enter into brake pad wear.
Usually a heavier vehicle wears pads and shoes faster than a light weight car. Slow in-town driving with a lot of stop and go driving wear brakes faster than over the road fast driving. Brake wear hinges on frequency of brake use. Ceramic brake pads last longer than organic or semi-metallic formulations.
You left out some important information: How many miles are on the odometer right this minute! You bought the car with 118,000 miles. It had 10,000 miles of brake use before you bought it. Do you see what I%26#039;me getting at?|||with both lights on I would say your low on brake fluid in the reservoir, brake pads only last as long as the person driving the vehicle, have them checked every 30,000 miles.
if ABS then its something with the abs system be it wheel sensors, control computer, or abs unit.
brake pads tend to last average of 40k miles in normal driving, you ride your brakes or tow a lot or slam on your brakes a lot and they%26#039;ll wear down a lot faster.|||well it all depends on how much u drive. u can tell by looking at the break pad and seeing how much is left on them u want no less then a half inch or else u could ruin ur rotors|||Have the system inspected. There should be no need to replace brakes after only 10K miles. If you have work done, do NOT take any parts to be machined at AutoZone. They are staffed by people who do not know %26quot;diddly%26quot; about cars.|||You remove the wheel, look at the pads, if there is only 1/8%26quot; or 3 mm left they need replacing.
to give you some idea where they are up to they are about 5/8%26quot; or 16 mm thick when new.
I just changed mine for the 1st time at 56000 miles. If yours need replacing after 10000, either you have something wrong with your set up and they are rubbing (using lots more fuel as well)
Or someone was telling lies!!!!!|||Well whenever you have your car serviced, varies with different cars, usually around 20k miles, you should check your brake pads/shoes for wear. If they seem fine and have no squeak or pull towards any side then they%26#039;re okay :)|||Shouldn%26#039;t I have 74 thou on my GMC and still have the same pads, have him check the master cylinder, as this can cause the light to come on, also ck to make sure the light does not say ABS as this is a totally different problem, and when he does look at the pads, make sure the calipers, which push the pads to the rotors are not sticking, and one other thing, have him take the rotors to autozone and have them machined and ck that they have not warped due to heat, something is abnormal, these are the things I would look at.|||they need to be changed every time they wear out or become cracked.|||There are many reasons brake pads last up to 80,000 miles and still others 10,000 miles. Vehicle weight, type of pads and where you do most of your driving enter into brake pad wear.
Usually a heavier vehicle wears pads and shoes faster than a light weight car. Slow in-town driving with a lot of stop and go driving wear brakes faster than over the road fast driving. Brake wear hinges on frequency of brake use. Ceramic brake pads last longer than organic or semi-metallic formulations.
You left out some important information: How many miles are on the odometer right this minute! You bought the car with 118,000 miles. It had 10,000 miles of brake use before you bought it. Do you see what I%26#039;me getting at?|||with both lights on I would say your low on brake fluid in the reservoir, brake pads only last as long as the person driving the vehicle, have them checked every 30,000 miles.
95 Pontiac Grand Am Brakes. HELP!?
I need to change the rear brakes in my 95 pontiac grand am, I need to know how much of a pain it is to change the shoes and drums? Is there any special thing that need to be dune or is it a simple as the pads and shoes were on the front?|||Do you have 4 wheel disc or rear drum brakes? If you have rear drum brakes then I would bring it to a shop and have them install new brakes.|||If you have drum brakes, you will need special spring removal and installation tools. Pay careful attention to the order you remove the springs and the way they are facing.
Do only one side at a time so you can use the opposite side as a reference in case you forget how something was installed.
It%26#039;s not a hard job, but you will need to get the right tools.
Rick
I%26#039;m a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB%26#039;s: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.鈥?/a>
Do only one side at a time so you can use the opposite side as a reference in case you forget how something was installed.
It%26#039;s not a hard job, but you will need to get the right tools.
Rick
I%26#039;m a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB%26#039;s: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.鈥?/a>
How to I change the rotors on a 94 Civic CX?
Is there a way not to remove the caliper but to swing it out of the way? If not. I see two bolts holding the caliper and brake shoe assembly in place are those the ones I need to remove the caliper. I know how to get the rotor off after that
. Thanks|||To remove the rotor you must remove the caliper. Or at least the bracket holding the caliper.
You can not simply swing the caliper out of the way. You can only do this if you are slapping new pads on, and it%26#039;s not recommended.
Always get rotors turned when doing a brake job to ensure proper pad to surface contact.|||Yes those two bolts holds it and it has to be remove to change the rotor|||no you have to take the calipers off then slide off the rotors
. Thanks|||To remove the rotor you must remove the caliper. Or at least the bracket holding the caliper.
You can not simply swing the caliper out of the way. You can only do this if you are slapping new pads on, and it%26#039;s not recommended.
Always get rotors turned when doing a brake job to ensure proper pad to surface contact.|||Yes those two bolts holds it and it has to be remove to change the rotor|||no you have to take the calipers off then slide off the rotors
Ford Mondeo MK2 questions on condition and cost?
The ford show room mechanic quoted brake fluid change required and linings - pads / shoes as 20% remaining and discs front worn and brake cable worn.
Is it mandatory to change these immediately? Any idea how much it costs?
When i drive the car, i didn%26#039;t find any noise or problem.
Your suggestion would be very helpful.|||Some of these items are nearing the end of their useful and safe lives, so that the margin for coping with unusual circumstances will also be seriously reduced.
You could delay changing them, but is there anything to remind you to do it at a future date?
Get several quotes from other mechanics, e.g. brake cable may just need adjusting (can%26#039;t tell from here!)|||i would say you have to got to your dealer or wherever you bought the car, ask if it should be repaired and the cost of it would be.
Is it mandatory to change these immediately? Any idea how much it costs?
When i drive the car, i didn%26#039;t find any noise or problem.
Your suggestion would be very helpful.|||Some of these items are nearing the end of their useful and safe lives, so that the margin for coping with unusual circumstances will also be seriously reduced.
You could delay changing them, but is there anything to remind you to do it at a future date?
Get several quotes from other mechanics, e.g. brake cable may just need adjusting (can%26#039;t tell from here!)|||i would say you have to got to your dealer or wherever you bought the car, ask if it should be repaired and the cost of it would be.
How to change rear hub assembly on 2002 Pontiac Grand Am GT?
I have changed the front hub assemblies---all the bearings are bad---but the back looks completely different. The back has disc brakes(not shoes). I had no problem taking off the rotors and the brake calipers, but now I don%26#039;t see what to do next, as they are not the same design as the front. Anyone know anything about the back ones?|||Not enough space to write it here, go to the library and check out the repair manual for this year. Or better yet go to the auto parts store and buy the manual....
I got a 65 dodge coronet with drum brakes ..notice i was having to apply alot of pressure?
on the break pedal to get this beast to stop .. So i changed the front shoes and noticed its still hard to stop .. When i use 2 feet on the pedal it stops .. I was told by numerous people that i need to bleed my brakes . Was curious of how to do so ..and if i should change out my brake fluid?? thank you|||Sorry to change the subject but a 65 Dodge Coronet is a keeper. I wish I had one. The first answer is correct on the brake issue.|||Old Man Dirt has given you the best info.
If the brakes are manual brakes, no booster, they are going to feel hard and if you%26#039;ve never driven non-power brakes they are going to feel like they are not working.
A complete adjustment and bleeding of the system would probably be a good idea, the order would be RR, LR, RF, LF, always start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder when you bleed brakes. Be sure and keep the master cylinder full as you bleed the brakes. Bleeders at the wheel cylinder will break off so be prepared for that possibility, nothing you%26#039;ve done wrong, they%26#039;re just old and rusty.|||Do you feel like the brakes are working better after you pump them a few times. If so the brakes need bleed. If the car has power brakes, then the boost cylinder may be shot or not hooked up. A quick test for this is to depress the brakes firmly, start the engine. The brake pedal should move towards the floor. If not, then suspect the boost system. This consists of a booster on the master, a vacuum canister and tubing to connect the system to the intake manifold. So, not only can the booster fail, but the lines can rot, the canister rust out, but the engine may not be pulling a vacuum.
Make sure the drum brakes are adjusted right, there should be a slight resistance felt as the wheel is turned.
Bleeding the brakes requires a bleeder wrench, a piece of hose, a container, spare brake fluid and two people unless a one man bleeder is use. One person holds the pedal down while the other opens the bleeder and closes it, at which time the person holding the brake down releases it and depresses it again. This precess goes on until the air is out of the line. The hose is placed on the bleeder nipple and inserted into the container (partly filled with brake fluid) so that it can be determined if air is still coming out of the system. start with the brake farthest from the master. Speed bleeders have a check valve in them so opening and closing the bleeder is not needed and one person can do the job.
Care must be taken to keep the brake system with spare fluid at all times and also to keep the fluid off of paint.|||That%26#039;s an old model and you have to be careful loosening the bleeder screws, they will break off very easily. If they do you will need to replace cylinder on rear calipers on the front. This can run into some money. If they do break its possible to get them out with an %26quot;easy out%26quot; Your auto parts person should know what size you need. Before starting to remove the bleeders make sure you use liquid wrench. The cylinders are about ten dollars each the calipers are more but,they break less often. Be careful. If you don%26#039;t know how to bleed them you might want to get help. If not done properly, you could get into an accident. It%26#039;s not a job you want to do half a**ed.|||You may bleed the brakes till you are blue in the face and it may not work...If they are power assist drums you may have other issues...Your booster may be bad...My 67 plymouth had power 4 wheel drum brakes...The booster was bad...It cost about 300.00 to have the booster rebuilt...I just went for a complete disc brake conversion and cured all my problems...There is a company called just suspension..they have come out with a big bore master cylinder..You can run your brakes with no booster...|||It%26#039;s best done with two people. Most repair manuals should have a section on this. If bleeding the the brakes doesn%26#039;t work, I would suggest looking at replacing the master cylinder. And if you actually have a power booster I would also check that.|||has power brakes?
brake booster not working that what make pedal easy to push
soft pedal need bleeding
or adjusting of brake shoes
to adjust brakes up with wheel on spin by hand if its easy to turn needs adjusting til u can hardy spin it with two fingers
check your rear brakes
type into searchbox
how to adjust drum brakes
how to bleed brakes
how to check brake booster|||It%26#039;s the booster. If they needed bled they would just go to the floor and the pedal wouldn%26#039;t require that kind of pressure.|||it more than likely has no power brakes and is normal,i have a 66 dodge coronet 500
If the brakes are manual brakes, no booster, they are going to feel hard and if you%26#039;ve never driven non-power brakes they are going to feel like they are not working.
A complete adjustment and bleeding of the system would probably be a good idea, the order would be RR, LR, RF, LF, always start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder when you bleed brakes. Be sure and keep the master cylinder full as you bleed the brakes. Bleeders at the wheel cylinder will break off so be prepared for that possibility, nothing you%26#039;ve done wrong, they%26#039;re just old and rusty.|||Do you feel like the brakes are working better after you pump them a few times. If so the brakes need bleed. If the car has power brakes, then the boost cylinder may be shot or not hooked up. A quick test for this is to depress the brakes firmly, start the engine. The brake pedal should move towards the floor. If not, then suspect the boost system. This consists of a booster on the master, a vacuum canister and tubing to connect the system to the intake manifold. So, not only can the booster fail, but the lines can rot, the canister rust out, but the engine may not be pulling a vacuum.
Make sure the drum brakes are adjusted right, there should be a slight resistance felt as the wheel is turned.
Bleeding the brakes requires a bleeder wrench, a piece of hose, a container, spare brake fluid and two people unless a one man bleeder is use. One person holds the pedal down while the other opens the bleeder and closes it, at which time the person holding the brake down releases it and depresses it again. This precess goes on until the air is out of the line. The hose is placed on the bleeder nipple and inserted into the container (partly filled with brake fluid) so that it can be determined if air is still coming out of the system. start with the brake farthest from the master. Speed bleeders have a check valve in them so opening and closing the bleeder is not needed and one person can do the job.
Care must be taken to keep the brake system with spare fluid at all times and also to keep the fluid off of paint.|||That%26#039;s an old model and you have to be careful loosening the bleeder screws, they will break off very easily. If they do you will need to replace cylinder on rear calipers on the front. This can run into some money. If they do break its possible to get them out with an %26quot;easy out%26quot; Your auto parts person should know what size you need. Before starting to remove the bleeders make sure you use liquid wrench. The cylinders are about ten dollars each the calipers are more but,they break less often. Be careful. If you don%26#039;t know how to bleed them you might want to get help. If not done properly, you could get into an accident. It%26#039;s not a job you want to do half a**ed.|||You may bleed the brakes till you are blue in the face and it may not work...If they are power assist drums you may have other issues...Your booster may be bad...My 67 plymouth had power 4 wheel drum brakes...The booster was bad...It cost about 300.00 to have the booster rebuilt...I just went for a complete disc brake conversion and cured all my problems...There is a company called just suspension..they have come out with a big bore master cylinder..You can run your brakes with no booster...|||It%26#039;s best done with two people. Most repair manuals should have a section on this. If bleeding the the brakes doesn%26#039;t work, I would suggest looking at replacing the master cylinder. And if you actually have a power booster I would also check that.|||has power brakes?
brake booster not working that what make pedal easy to push
soft pedal need bleeding
or adjusting of brake shoes
to adjust brakes up with wheel on spin by hand if its easy to turn needs adjusting til u can hardy spin it with two fingers
check your rear brakes
type into searchbox
how to adjust drum brakes
how to bleed brakes
how to check brake booster|||It%26#039;s the booster. If they needed bled they would just go to the floor and the pedal wouldn%26#039;t require that kind of pressure.|||it more than likely has no power brakes and is normal,i have a 66 dodge coronet 500
Brake issue 1993 Ford Explorer?
I have a 1993 Ford Explorer Limited Edition. I recently (August) had my brake shoes, pads, and rotors changed. A month after it came back I noticed a lot of brake dust on my tires. I called someone and he said it was normal, that the pads were new and I thought little of it. Then about a week or so ago I started noticing that when I would apply pressure to my brakes at times they would be a little slow to stop a few times, but nothing alarming. Then today the brake petal started acting weird. I would apply pressure to brake and it would go all the way to the floor and barely stop my car. There was no friction. As I pushed them to the ground I almost heard a air like noise but am not sure as I am a novice when it comes to this sort of thing. Someone said it could be the master cylinder and someone else said to have my brakes bleed. Does this sound right? If so how much would this typically cost to fix. I am taking it in tomorrow but would like to be semi educated before hand.|||n name,
First look at the master cylinder and see if the fluid is full. if it%26#039;s not then you have a leak. I would say that it is most likely comming form a rear wheel if you can%26#039;t see anythng on the street.
AS for the extra brake dust that is common for brake shops, they use softer pad than originally placedon your truck from Ford. They will work fine just have extra dust. in the same token they wear out a bit faster.
If the fluid is not low and you said the pedal went to the floor Iwould have it looked at. If you had the brakes done at a shop if it was like Midas or Minekie any of their shops will warranty the work of any of their shops no matter where it was done. If it was done bay a dealership take it to same type dealership and they will also warranty the work done of any of their other dealerships.
Good Luck and becareful!!|||This problem recently happened to my 1994 Ranger. I found that when i looked under the truck it was a rusty brake line leaking on my axle. so i replaced that section of my brake line. myself (still cost $100). so i would look under there and see if there is fluid sprayed up on the underside of the truck. if not it may be a hole a problem with one of your master cylinders.|||You should take it back to the place where you got the brakes serviced in the beginning about a month ago. Sounds like their responsible. Take it back and tell them what is going on, it%26#039;s a safety issue and they were the last ones who serviced your brakes so they must of did something wrong. Be careful and don%26#039;t forget about that emergency brake. Best of luck to you!|||Sounds like the master cylinder to me. There is a chance it could be air in the lines, but not likely. If there%26#039;s a leak, definitely don%26#039;t drive it. Look around for wetting on or around the brake lines. If there is, you may have to get it towed. A new master cylinder costs like 150 bucks give or take plus labor.|||If master cylinder is full of fluid you need a master cylinder about $300 to fix at a shop. If fluid is low you have a leak that has to be fixed.
First look at the master cylinder and see if the fluid is full. if it%26#039;s not then you have a leak. I would say that it is most likely comming form a rear wheel if you can%26#039;t see anythng on the street.
AS for the extra brake dust that is common for brake shops, they use softer pad than originally placedon your truck from Ford. They will work fine just have extra dust. in the same token they wear out a bit faster.
If the fluid is not low and you said the pedal went to the floor Iwould have it looked at. If you had the brakes done at a shop if it was like Midas or Minekie any of their shops will warranty the work of any of their shops no matter where it was done. If it was done bay a dealership take it to same type dealership and they will also warranty the work done of any of their other dealerships.
Good Luck and becareful!!|||This problem recently happened to my 1994 Ranger. I found that when i looked under the truck it was a rusty brake line leaking on my axle. so i replaced that section of my brake line. myself (still cost $100). so i would look under there and see if there is fluid sprayed up on the underside of the truck. if not it may be a hole a problem with one of your master cylinders.|||You should take it back to the place where you got the brakes serviced in the beginning about a month ago. Sounds like their responsible. Take it back and tell them what is going on, it%26#039;s a safety issue and they were the last ones who serviced your brakes so they must of did something wrong. Be careful and don%26#039;t forget about that emergency brake. Best of luck to you!|||Sounds like the master cylinder to me. There is a chance it could be air in the lines, but not likely. If there%26#039;s a leak, definitely don%26#039;t drive it. Look around for wetting on or around the brake lines. If there is, you may have to get it towed. A new master cylinder costs like 150 bucks give or take plus labor.|||If master cylinder is full of fluid you need a master cylinder about $300 to fix at a shop. If fluid is low you have a leak that has to be fixed.
I have changed my rear shoes on my astra and the foot pedal goes all the way to the floor!?
i have blead the brakes 3 times now and still there is nothing there, plus the handbrake pulls right up! what has caused this and how do i fix it?|||you will need to manually adjust the brake shoes up inside the hub you will need to use a screw driver to force the ratchet adjuster to the right which will spay out the shoes towards the inside of the drum to eliminate the loss of pedal|||quite possible you will need to adjust the adjuster up a bit tighter it should be quite stiff to turn the hub with your hands|||Try adjusting your rear brakes that will probably take care of it.|||you have put something back together wrong. seek a proffessional mechanic before you drive this vehicle.
You may have blead the master cylinder dry.
Check for fluid leaks sounds like a wheel cylinder has popped out on you and the leak will be obvious when you look. How familiar are you with Mechanics?|||DO NOT DRIVE. Have you bled the brakes correctly, it takes 2 people to do it right. open yhe master cylender till it touches the callipers. Then bleed the brakes. pls get a mechanic to check if ok xx|||you just didnt adjust the brakes up using the tool and making a hole in the drum to turn the adjuster,, try putting your car in reverse and pumping your brakes,short stops, almost studder, just keep pumping it|||sounds like the brake adjuster hasn%26#039;t adjusted as it should,try to free it,this would then also make the handbrake settings right,but if you have%26#039;nt bled the brakes properly,you may have to get them done at a garage,where they use a pressurised system|||Hi
It isn%26#039;t air which is causing the problem, its the rear self adjuster mechanisms in each rear drum.
If rapidly pumping the foot brake several times over and over again doesn%26#039;t rectify the problem then your best bet is to remove the drums again and adjust them manually.
You should bear in mind that if it turns into a manual adjustment then you should check for a %26quot;lip%26quot; around the outer edge of the friction surface of the drum, which is caused by drum wear, and which will hinder the adjustment due to the fact that you can only adjust the shoes as far as the lip, not the actual friction surface, or the drum will not go back on over the shoes.
There are 3 ways around this:-
1) A drum grind wherein the lip is ground away
2) New drums
OR
3) Adjust the brakes so that you have to force the drum back on over the shoes and then you should be able to carry out the pedal pumping scenario above, just as long as the lip isn%26#039;t too severe.
Give it a go.
Very best regards
Geordie|||If your car is new or newish then I would say that the auto adjust is not working. Have a look and see if the adjustment is working. Usually this is a gnarled wheel with a spring adjuster attached which will ratchet up as the brakes are used. If this is not working then you will need a new adjuster. Not know ing the car I can only guess.|||Looking at the answers,and then the problem,i have one suggestion and its happened to me a few times.When brakes are bled,picture the master cylinder.Under normal braking the cyl pistons move about half inch max.Suddenly out of fluid,when you go to bleed the first push on the pedal takes the pistons where they have never been,so they stay there.Sometimes tapping the master cylinder lightly along the outside will send the pistons back again.....should this have been the case,when bleeding only use about half pedal travel until at least some resistance is felt.Sometimes[odd] i have had to undo the m/cyl with pipes attached and turn it as far upside down as possable to remove stubborn air.I hope iv made this understandable good luck
You may have blead the master cylinder dry.
Check for fluid leaks sounds like a wheel cylinder has popped out on you and the leak will be obvious when you look. How familiar are you with Mechanics?|||DO NOT DRIVE. Have you bled the brakes correctly, it takes 2 people to do it right. open yhe master cylender till it touches the callipers. Then bleed the brakes. pls get a mechanic to check if ok xx|||you just didnt adjust the brakes up using the tool and making a hole in the drum to turn the adjuster,, try putting your car in reverse and pumping your brakes,short stops, almost studder, just keep pumping it|||sounds like the brake adjuster hasn%26#039;t adjusted as it should,try to free it,this would then also make the handbrake settings right,but if you have%26#039;nt bled the brakes properly,you may have to get them done at a garage,where they use a pressurised system|||Hi
It isn%26#039;t air which is causing the problem, its the rear self adjuster mechanisms in each rear drum.
If rapidly pumping the foot brake several times over and over again doesn%26#039;t rectify the problem then your best bet is to remove the drums again and adjust them manually.
You should bear in mind that if it turns into a manual adjustment then you should check for a %26quot;lip%26quot; around the outer edge of the friction surface of the drum, which is caused by drum wear, and which will hinder the adjustment due to the fact that you can only adjust the shoes as far as the lip, not the actual friction surface, or the drum will not go back on over the shoes.
There are 3 ways around this:-
1) A drum grind wherein the lip is ground away
2) New drums
OR
3) Adjust the brakes so that you have to force the drum back on over the shoes and then you should be able to carry out the pedal pumping scenario above, just as long as the lip isn%26#039;t too severe.
Give it a go.
Very best regards
Geordie|||If your car is new or newish then I would say that the auto adjust is not working. Have a look and see if the adjustment is working. Usually this is a gnarled wheel with a spring adjuster attached which will ratchet up as the brakes are used. If this is not working then you will need a new adjuster. Not know ing the car I can only guess.|||Looking at the answers,and then the problem,i have one suggestion and its happened to me a few times.When brakes are bled,picture the master cylinder.Under normal braking the cyl pistons move about half inch max.Suddenly out of fluid,when you go to bleed the first push on the pedal takes the pistons where they have never been,so they stay there.Sometimes tapping the master cylinder lightly along the outside will send the pistons back again.....should this have been the case,when bleeding only use about half pedal travel until at least some resistance is felt.Sometimes[odd] i have had to undo the m/cyl with pipes attached and turn it as far upside down as possable to remove stubborn air.I hope iv made this understandable good luck
SEAT Ibiza back brakes?
Can anyone direct me to a web page that will give me a step by step on how to change the rear brake shoes on a Mk 3 Ibiza.
Dont get me wrong I am competant enough to do them, I would just like a little look at what I can expect when I get the drum off and any tips from experts. Just to prepare myself a bit.
Ta for any postitive helpful replies|||Rear Drum Brakes:
Break loose the wheel lugs on both sides, jack up each side and support the vehicle using metal jack stands. Remove the wheels. Most rear drums simply slide on to the hub, although they may have a thin metal push nut on two of the lugs to secure the drum during assembly, if they are found simply break them off using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers or a cold chisel, You do not need to replace the push nuts - they simply prevent the drum from falling off during handling during vehicle assembly. Wearing safety glasses to protect yourself from flying pieces of rust, pound liberally around the rim of the drum with a heavy hand sledge (2# or 1 Kg size) rotating the blows, do not hit the same place repeatedly, until the drum breaks loose. IF the drum is not too badly grooved, the drum will slide off with a bit of wiggling, if it refuses to come off you will have to locate the adjuster access hole in the backing plate, usually oval shaped and located at either the bottom center or upper front center of the backing plate, remove the rubber plug and turn the adjuster wheel until the brake shoes back off and allow the drum to be removed. In extreme cases it may be necessary to force the drum off with extreme brute force using 2 or more Large Pry Bars - if this degree of force is required be prepared to replace absolutely everything in the assembly - Adjuster mechanisms, Hold down pins springs and clips, return springs and last but certainly not least the parking brake cables. If the drums are only mildly grooved, and are similar in appearance on both sides it should not be necessary to have them turned or to replace them, if either side has deep grooves, or if the lip on the outer edge where the shoe does not contact the drum is deeper than 3/16%26quot; (2mm) then the best solution is simply to replace the drums, if new drums are installed make certain to clean the braking surface using Brake Parts Cleaner to remove the oily preservative. Hopefully at least one side came apart without requiring the brute force method !!! Replace the brake assembly one side at a time closely and carefully comparing the positioning and orientation of each part with it%26#039;s mate on the other side to ensure correct operation of the completed assembly. If re using the adjuster assembly, thoroughly clean it of rust and coat the threads with Anti-Seize compound and operate the threaded adjustment from end to end several times to ensure smooth operation. Also apply a dab of Anti-Seize to each of the spots where the shoes ride on the backing plate. If you are replacing the adjuster make certain that you install each adjuster on the correct side, one of them will be Left hand or Reverse threaded due to the mirror image operation of the design. When the side is assembled slide the drum over the shoes and check for excessive clearance, if there is more than 1/16%26quot; (1mm) clearance, rotate the adjuster wheel a little at a time until the drum just lightly drags on the shoes as they slide on. Repeat process for opposite side. Install wheels and snug the lugs using a crisscross or star pattern, lower the car to the ground on both sides and tighten the wheels to the proper torque using a torque wrench, again using a crisscross or star tightening pattern which prevents warping of the hub and wheel assembly. Test the brakes and verify that you have a firm pedal with the engine running before placing the car in gear! If the pedal is firm put the car in gear and let it roll a few feet and check the brakes again, if they feel normal continue with a test drive trying out the brakes at varied speeds, they should be smooth and free from any pulling from side to side.|||the main thing alot forget is u need a grinder...on removing the drums,check the inner braking surface,there will be a lip of unworn metal that needs ground off..this aids quick and proper fitment of the drum.also adjust up the shoes by hand[dont let the %26#039;%26#039;automatic%26#039;%26#039; adjusters work as most of the time they dont]...so there just dragging the drum when its on..if when back together,you Spin the wheel,and it turns freely,without slowing down quick then you%26#039;ve done it wrong!...shoes must be just touching the drum,if there not there will be lots of movement on the foot brake...hope this helps a Little|||well you can always google it, normally brings up what your looking for, I would invest in a haynes manual for your car , i buy one for evry car i get and they cover evrything
Dont get me wrong I am competant enough to do them, I would just like a little look at what I can expect when I get the drum off and any tips from experts. Just to prepare myself a bit.
Ta for any postitive helpful replies|||Rear Drum Brakes:
Break loose the wheel lugs on both sides, jack up each side and support the vehicle using metal jack stands. Remove the wheels. Most rear drums simply slide on to the hub, although they may have a thin metal push nut on two of the lugs to secure the drum during assembly, if they are found simply break them off using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers or a cold chisel, You do not need to replace the push nuts - they simply prevent the drum from falling off during handling during vehicle assembly. Wearing safety glasses to protect yourself from flying pieces of rust, pound liberally around the rim of the drum with a heavy hand sledge (2# or 1 Kg size) rotating the blows, do not hit the same place repeatedly, until the drum breaks loose. IF the drum is not too badly grooved, the drum will slide off with a bit of wiggling, if it refuses to come off you will have to locate the adjuster access hole in the backing plate, usually oval shaped and located at either the bottom center or upper front center of the backing plate, remove the rubber plug and turn the adjuster wheel until the brake shoes back off and allow the drum to be removed. In extreme cases it may be necessary to force the drum off with extreme brute force using 2 or more Large Pry Bars - if this degree of force is required be prepared to replace absolutely everything in the assembly - Adjuster mechanisms, Hold down pins springs and clips, return springs and last but certainly not least the parking brake cables. If the drums are only mildly grooved, and are similar in appearance on both sides it should not be necessary to have them turned or to replace them, if either side has deep grooves, or if the lip on the outer edge where the shoe does not contact the drum is deeper than 3/16%26quot; (2mm) then the best solution is simply to replace the drums, if new drums are installed make certain to clean the braking surface using Brake Parts Cleaner to remove the oily preservative. Hopefully at least one side came apart without requiring the brute force method !!! Replace the brake assembly one side at a time closely and carefully comparing the positioning and orientation of each part with it%26#039;s mate on the other side to ensure correct operation of the completed assembly. If re using the adjuster assembly, thoroughly clean it of rust and coat the threads with Anti-Seize compound and operate the threaded adjustment from end to end several times to ensure smooth operation. Also apply a dab of Anti-Seize to each of the spots where the shoes ride on the backing plate. If you are replacing the adjuster make certain that you install each adjuster on the correct side, one of them will be Left hand or Reverse threaded due to the mirror image operation of the design. When the side is assembled slide the drum over the shoes and check for excessive clearance, if there is more than 1/16%26quot; (1mm) clearance, rotate the adjuster wheel a little at a time until the drum just lightly drags on the shoes as they slide on. Repeat process for opposite side. Install wheels and snug the lugs using a crisscross or star pattern, lower the car to the ground on both sides and tighten the wheels to the proper torque using a torque wrench, again using a crisscross or star tightening pattern which prevents warping of the hub and wheel assembly. Test the brakes and verify that you have a firm pedal with the engine running before placing the car in gear! If the pedal is firm put the car in gear and let it roll a few feet and check the brakes again, if they feel normal continue with a test drive trying out the brakes at varied speeds, they should be smooth and free from any pulling from side to side.|||the main thing alot forget is u need a grinder...on removing the drums,check the inner braking surface,there will be a lip of unworn metal that needs ground off..this aids quick and proper fitment of the drum.also adjust up the shoes by hand[dont let the %26#039;%26#039;automatic%26#039;%26#039; adjusters work as most of the time they dont]...so there just dragging the drum when its on..if when back together,you Spin the wheel,and it turns freely,without slowing down quick then you%26#039;ve done it wrong!...shoes must be just touching the drum,if there not there will be lots of movement on the foot brake...hope this helps a Little|||well you can always google it, normally brings up what your looking for, I would invest in a haynes manual for your car , i buy one for evry car i get and they cover evrything
Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
I changed the rear shoes, hubs, springs and all the little stuff on my wife%26#039;s 1990 Nissan Stanza, I got the driver side drum on, but now cant get the passenger side on.....how the heck do i get it back on and is it supposed to take a hammer to knock it back on?|||Is the brake adjuster spun all the way back in at the very bottom of the replacement shoes? There should be no free space between the tooth adjuster wheel and the body of the adjuster that slips over the base of the shoes .
Try switching brake shoes side to side.|||Several possibilities.
First of all, did you totally release the adjustor?
Some cars have a star wheel on a threaded shaft; other have wedges, etc.
Second is that could the parking brake be hanging up?
That should be totally loose.
Third is that the wheel cylinder could be sticking?
Make sure the piston turns easily and is not binding from rust.
Also make sure you did not turn the piston slot upside down, as they often are not flat, but slanted.
Also make sure the shoes are centered.
They can move up and down considerably.
You can have the ridge machined off the drum, but you should not have to.
It should fit because replacements should be no larger than the originals.|||Noooo hammer! ... When you brake, the shoes wear down. But the drums wear down as well over time.
If these are the original drums there will be a ridge inside the drum on the leading edge. This is what stops the drum going back on.
The best way to remove this is in a lathe but failing that you can carefully use a grindstone in your drill
to remove most of it and the drum will just push on.
One point There is a maximum diameter for the drum which should not be exceeded. Usually if you wire brush them you will find the size stamped on it somewhere. Check this also as you may need new drums. Here in UK replacement drums are about 拢25 a pair roughly $40
Also check your handbrake adjuster.|||no no no hammers,usually the self adjusters are all the way out by the time you put on new shoes, you need to set them back, and them adjust them out to specifications which should be in the repair manual.
drum brakes must be adjusted correctly, or else in a panic stop situation the car can lock one or more wheels and or pull to one side or the other, if you did not get a repair manual yet, go get one. it would have all the Information you need in it|||did you run the adjuster all the way in? also there is a ridge on the inside edge of the drum sometimes will make it hard to get on. take the drums and have them turned down to get the edge off. don,t hammer them on or they will get stuck and the wheel won,t turn. do like i said and they will fit. try adjusting the adjuster in all the way.|||No! There should be an adjusting screw spindle. I looks like a cowboys spur on the end of a tube. Pull the hold down tang away from the star wheel and turn the star wheel to bring the shoes closer together. Once it%26#039;s on you make your preliminary adjust through the hole in the back(maybe the front) using a flat screwdriver or a brake spoon.
Good luck.|||did you install them properly. the drum should slide right over. is the parking brake on. remember,brakes,when engaged, press out onto the inside of the drum. your parking brake %26quot;tighten%26#039;s%26quot; the rear system.|||adjust it in some bump shoes with hand
should be little tight but not that you have to hit it
turn adjuster make it shorter
Try switching brake shoes side to side.|||Several possibilities.
First of all, did you totally release the adjustor?
Some cars have a star wheel on a threaded shaft; other have wedges, etc.
Second is that could the parking brake be hanging up?
That should be totally loose.
Third is that the wheel cylinder could be sticking?
Make sure the piston turns easily and is not binding from rust.
Also make sure you did not turn the piston slot upside down, as they often are not flat, but slanted.
Also make sure the shoes are centered.
They can move up and down considerably.
You can have the ridge machined off the drum, but you should not have to.
It should fit because replacements should be no larger than the originals.|||Noooo hammer! ... When you brake, the shoes wear down. But the drums wear down as well over time.
If these are the original drums there will be a ridge inside the drum on the leading edge. This is what stops the drum going back on.
The best way to remove this is in a lathe but failing that you can carefully use a grindstone in your drill
to remove most of it and the drum will just push on.
One point There is a maximum diameter for the drum which should not be exceeded. Usually if you wire brush them you will find the size stamped on it somewhere. Check this also as you may need new drums. Here in UK replacement drums are about 拢25 a pair roughly $40
Also check your handbrake adjuster.|||no no no hammers,usually the self adjusters are all the way out by the time you put on new shoes, you need to set them back, and them adjust them out to specifications which should be in the repair manual.
drum brakes must be adjusted correctly, or else in a panic stop situation the car can lock one or more wheels and or pull to one side or the other, if you did not get a repair manual yet, go get one. it would have all the Information you need in it|||did you run the adjuster all the way in? also there is a ridge on the inside edge of the drum sometimes will make it hard to get on. take the drums and have them turned down to get the edge off. don,t hammer them on or they will get stuck and the wheel won,t turn. do like i said and they will fit. try adjusting the adjuster in all the way.|||No! There should be an adjusting screw spindle. I looks like a cowboys spur on the end of a tube. Pull the hold down tang away from the star wheel and turn the star wheel to bring the shoes closer together. Once it%26#039;s on you make your preliminary adjust through the hole in the back(maybe the front) using a flat screwdriver or a brake spoon.
Good luck.|||did you install them properly. the drum should slide right over. is the parking brake on. remember,brakes,when engaged, press out onto the inside of the drum. your parking brake %26quot;tighten%26#039;s%26quot; the rear system.|||adjust it in some bump shoes with hand
should be little tight but not that you have to hit it
turn adjuster make it shorter
How do I change the brakes and hardware kit on my back brakes?
I have a 1985 chevy s-10. 6 cylinder. 2 wheel drive. Standard. I have no idea how to start. I took the drum off and there is a bunch of black gunk and parts just fell everywhere. I bought a hardware kit and a set of shoes. The drum is ok. Does any one know were I can find an instruction manual or explain to me how to do this?|||I would suggest that you get the chilton repair manual for you make and model from your library.It should show you how it all goes together.Another way would be to remove the opposite wheel and brake drum and take a look at it to see how it is in place.|||type into search box
how to replace rear brake shoes
heres one pretty good one|||1 if you don%26#039;t already know how to do brakes, why are you doing them?? Leave a safety item like that to someone who knows what they are doing. Even
#2 IF THERE IS BLACK GUNK (like brake fluid or grease) THEN YOU HAVE A LEAKING WHEEL CYLINDER OR REAR axle SEAL THAT NEEDS TO BE REPAIRED BEFORE THE BRAKES ARE REPLACED
take this to someone who knows what they are doing.
how to replace rear brake shoes
heres one pretty good one|||1 if you don%26#039;t already know how to do brakes, why are you doing them?? Leave a safety item like that to someone who knows what they are doing. Even
#2 IF THERE IS BLACK GUNK (like brake fluid or grease) THEN YOU HAVE A LEAKING WHEEL CYLINDER OR REAR axle SEAL THAT NEEDS TO BE REPAIRED BEFORE THE BRAKES ARE REPLACED
take this to someone who knows what they are doing.
How do i change the front and back brakes on a 1994 fiat uno?
how do i change the front and back brakes on a 1994 fiat uno, i need to know how to dismantle the front brakes and release the calipers on the brake disc, and on the back brakes how to get the brake shoes off and tighten the handbrake.....thanks for taking the time to read this hope u can help........|||i%26#039;d say not to take risk of changing brakes on ur own....
firstly.....take car on ramp....remove the front two tyres.....u%26#039;ll see the big hub....just losen dat big bolt....remove the hub....simillarly remove the rear wheel%26#039;s hub.....check for hand brake is released.....now u can see the brake liners...drum/disc brake arrangement.....there is one screw on the right side just tighten or losen it equally with all four wheels....otherwise u%26#039;ll experience one side pull of ur car when u apply brakes....n then repeate process reversely add up tyres.....
But i still recommend u to take ur car to specialist otherwise it may harm ur car%26#039;s stability %26amp; alignment....
firstly.....take car on ramp....remove the front two tyres.....u%26#039;ll see the big hub....just losen dat big bolt....remove the hub....simillarly remove the rear wheel%26#039;s hub.....check for hand brake is released.....now u can see the brake liners...drum/disc brake arrangement.....there is one screw on the right side just tighten or losen it equally with all four wheels....otherwise u%26#039;ll experience one side pull of ur car when u apply brakes....n then repeate process reversely add up tyres.....
But i still recommend u to take ur car to specialist otherwise it may harm ur car%26#039;s stability %26amp; alignment....
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
I have a red brake light on i just had my rear brakes changed but the light is still on what makes that light go on? i cant seem to find anything around the drum or brake shoes wear would the sensor be or what would set it off how can i fix this?|||sensor is usually on the master cylinder and is telling you you have low fluid check that|||An %26#039;83 Ram PU isn%26#039;t going to have a low fluid level warning light. That%26#039;s just the normal brake warning light, which is triggered by a sensor in your proportioning valve (a little metal block that the 2 lines from the master go into, and then 3-4 lines come out to the wheels, just below the master). It shows that there is some sort of an imbalance in pressure between the 2 brake circuits. A lot of times it will be on after a brake job because the wheel cylinders got pushed back in to make room for the new shoes. It will usually go out after you press the brake pedal a few times. If not, it could be that the proportioning valve needs to be reset, or the wheel cylinders started leaking when they were pushed in. Normally, it will come on if you have a fluid leak, air in the lines, or a bad master cylinder plunger.
How to know if my ABS or Brake Booster is bad?
I have 1998 Chevy Tahoe 4WD. I have changed my callipers, front brake lines, master cylinder, new brake shoes. When I am driving for about 15min .My brake pedal gets so hard that I cant press it and my vehicle gets stuck and won%26#039;t move at all. I have to wait until the brakes cool down for about and hour and then I am able to move the vehicle again. And it just repeat itself.|||Wow thats not good, before I read all of the question I was thinking it was your Booster because it is supposed to make pushing the brake easier by using vacuum pressure. But as I read on you mentioned it stuck, Thats not good at all bud. Sounds to me like your pads may be on loose or something of that sort wasn%26#039;t hooked up right. I%26#039;m not an expert but you better get that looked at as soon as you can before something bad happens.|||That is a strange one. I know GM has a brake sensor system that your lines run through. A box under the hood near the master cylinder.
I%26#039;ve heard of that going bad. I%26#039;m not sure if it would cause your problem. Try bleeding the brakes at the master cylinder to see if that helps. You may have air in the line. Normaly you wouldn%26#039;t think air would cause them to stop the vehicle.
I had that happen on a Honda and it was a vaccum problem. Some sort of vaccum box was the problem.|||I don%26#039;t think it%26#039;s ABS. The only things you haven%26#039;t replaced is the vacuum booster and proportioning valve. If you can get them to lock, jack up the car and check to see which whells won%26#039;t turn (make sure parking brake is disengaged and trans is in neutral to check the rear). This should tell you which wheel(s) are locking and may aid in troubleshooting.
I%26#039;ve heard of that going bad. I%26#039;m not sure if it would cause your problem. Try bleeding the brakes at the master cylinder to see if that helps. You may have air in the line. Normaly you wouldn%26#039;t think air would cause them to stop the vehicle.
I had that happen on a Honda and it was a vaccum problem. Some sort of vaccum box was the problem.|||I don%26#039;t think it%26#039;s ABS. The only things you haven%26#039;t replaced is the vacuum booster and proportioning valve. If you can get them to lock, jack up the car and check to see which whells won%26#039;t turn (make sure parking brake is disengaged and trans is in neutral to check the rear). This should tell you which wheel(s) are locking and may aid in troubleshooting.
Worn rear brakes?
How do I change the rear brakes on a 86 Honda Rebel, it has a rear drum and I wonder if it is possible to change the brake shoes without removing the wheel.
If I have to remove the wheel, how do you do that, I mean, how do you lift the rear end of the bike?|||The rear wheel has to be removed to change the brakes.
Put the side stand down.
Put a floor jack under the frame at the right front foot peg (or a little more to the rear) to get the rear wheel off of the ground.
http://www.dansmc.com/rear_wheels.htm
Any questions - just ask.|||save yourself a headache and bring it somewhere|||If you dont know how I would take it to a friend or to a motorcylcle shop and they should have some tips on how to change the brakes. Good luck|||You have to jack it up at the frame in front of the wheel.A motrocycle jack is best.The wheel does have to come off so make sure you jack it up enough to get the wheel out.Once you get it up take off the brake rod loosen the axle,take the chain off the rear sprocket,pull the axle and comes right out.The brake hub slides right out of the wheel.It%26#039;s not a hard job just be carefull not to let your bike fall on you...Ride safe,there%26#039;s stupid people on the road.|||I would strongly suggest buying a repair manual. It will clearly show and tell how to perform this operation. Brakes are serious business. They are not hard to repair, but they must be done right.
No-one has done brake work on any of my vehicles or cycles except me. I trust myself. Also, I will not work on another person%26#039;s brakes. I don%26#039;t want the liability. Which, actually, is why you did not get an answer from me.|||any serious biker should know something about their machine.take firecrackers advice and purchase a good shop manual, it will pay for itself the first time you use it.
If I have to remove the wheel, how do you do that, I mean, how do you lift the rear end of the bike?|||The rear wheel has to be removed to change the brakes.
Put the side stand down.
Put a floor jack under the frame at the right front foot peg (or a little more to the rear) to get the rear wheel off of the ground.
http://www.dansmc.com/rear_wheels.htm
Any questions - just ask.|||save yourself a headache and bring it somewhere|||If you dont know how I would take it to a friend or to a motorcylcle shop and they should have some tips on how to change the brakes. Good luck|||You have to jack it up at the frame in front of the wheel.A motrocycle jack is best.The wheel does have to come off so make sure you jack it up enough to get the wheel out.Once you get it up take off the brake rod loosen the axle,take the chain off the rear sprocket,pull the axle and comes right out.The brake hub slides right out of the wheel.It%26#039;s not a hard job just be carefull not to let your bike fall on you...Ride safe,there%26#039;s stupid people on the road.|||I would strongly suggest buying a repair manual. It will clearly show and tell how to perform this operation. Brakes are serious business. They are not hard to repair, but they must be done right.
No-one has done brake work on any of my vehicles or cycles except me. I trust myself. Also, I will not work on another person%26#039;s brakes. I don%26#039;t want the liability. Which, actually, is why you did not get an answer from me.|||any serious biker should know something about their machine.take firecrackers advice and purchase a good shop manual, it will pay for itself the first time you use it.
If you need new brake shoes or pads will it make your brake light come on?
my brake light has been coming on and someone told me its because i havent replaced the brake pads since i had the car (about a year now) but i didnt know i was suppose to ....
so if you dont change them will it make the light come on and how much does it cost to get it done|||The answer is no - that light will come on if your emergency brake is on - in some cases it will come on if there is a malfunction
Brake pads have a metal tab that is designed to scrap or squeel on the brake rotor/drum when the pad is low - so the first thing you do is listen for any scraping sounds when you apply the brakes - second, the steering wheel should not pull right or left when braking - this is also a sign that the pads should be looked at ------finally - you should have them looked at - at regular intervals - every car is different , but the owner%26#039;s manual will tell you when to have them inspected - most pads only last 33k -50k miles - they do not last a lifetime - that is a warranty where they are betting that you wont be holding onto the car all that long|||hey dear, you have to keep an eye on those brakes, especially if you do alot of stop and go driving, but by brakes being down low shouldnt make the light come on. what does is, a leak in the wheel cylinders, your master cylinder is out of fluid or a line leaking. i would check the brake fluid first, you might be almost out.|||ABSOLUTE NO! There is a break relay that needs to fix. When you do change the shoes make sure you change the rotors at the same time, I know it cost more but do it. And if they say you need calipers 99% of the time you don%26#039;t. You can always go in the garage to show you what they are talking about. If they say you can%26#039;t go back then start going somewhere else. GOOD LUCK!|||I am not sure about newer cars but, bad brakes does not cause the brake light to come on. This could be caused by low brake fluid in the master cylinder. If this is the case, simply add brake fluid.
Some cars have problems with the hand brake or, emergency brake. It may be sticking and in need of adjustment. This may be causing the brake light to come on.
You do have to change your brake pads occasionally. But, there will be an indication of this when it happens. Also, if your State has State inspections, they will tell you when your pads need to be changed.|||when your brake pads need to be changed, they will make a screeching chirp sound. they have metal scrapers set at a cetain level, and when the pad wears out enough, the sensors hit the rotor, to make the annoying sound.|||My light in the dash doesn%26#039;t come on~ I always know when I need brake pads because you can FEEL and HEAR it!
It sounds terrible and grinds! Good LUck
If your not having those problems I would think your brake fluid is low!|||sure thing any time you have a light come on its a sign that your about to have a problem and you need to stop what ever you thing is more important and check for what ever light you have yes the light means your about out of brakes or fluid so stop driving it and check it .... the long you drive with a light on be it what ever your doing nothing but costing you more money to repair the parts..... call three places you can find in phone book and ask them about a brake job and how much it will cost .... and cheaper is not always the best go with the pplace that has been in business the longest time cause they know.... has for the price any where a round 99 buck and up depend on how bad they are wored or what damage you have done in driving it after the light come on.... brakes are what stop you think about it dont you like knowing when you come up to that light is that you have brake and are going to stop no brake is a bad thing and you dont want to know that feeling|||if you mean the light on the inside dash that will come on when the break fluid is low. check that also it would be a good time to check the brake pads as well.
so if you dont change them will it make the light come on and how much does it cost to get it done|||The answer is no - that light will come on if your emergency brake is on - in some cases it will come on if there is a malfunction
Brake pads have a metal tab that is designed to scrap or squeel on the brake rotor/drum when the pad is low - so the first thing you do is listen for any scraping sounds when you apply the brakes - second, the steering wheel should not pull right or left when braking - this is also a sign that the pads should be looked at ------finally - you should have them looked at - at regular intervals - every car is different , but the owner%26#039;s manual will tell you when to have them inspected - most pads only last 33k -50k miles - they do not last a lifetime - that is a warranty where they are betting that you wont be holding onto the car all that long|||hey dear, you have to keep an eye on those brakes, especially if you do alot of stop and go driving, but by brakes being down low shouldnt make the light come on. what does is, a leak in the wheel cylinders, your master cylinder is out of fluid or a line leaking. i would check the brake fluid first, you might be almost out.|||ABSOLUTE NO! There is a break relay that needs to fix. When you do change the shoes make sure you change the rotors at the same time, I know it cost more but do it. And if they say you need calipers 99% of the time you don%26#039;t. You can always go in the garage to show you what they are talking about. If they say you can%26#039;t go back then start going somewhere else. GOOD LUCK!|||I am not sure about newer cars but, bad brakes does not cause the brake light to come on. This could be caused by low brake fluid in the master cylinder. If this is the case, simply add brake fluid.
Some cars have problems with the hand brake or, emergency brake. It may be sticking and in need of adjustment. This may be causing the brake light to come on.
You do have to change your brake pads occasionally. But, there will be an indication of this when it happens. Also, if your State has State inspections, they will tell you when your pads need to be changed.|||when your brake pads need to be changed, they will make a screeching chirp sound. they have metal scrapers set at a cetain level, and when the pad wears out enough, the sensors hit the rotor, to make the annoying sound.|||My light in the dash doesn%26#039;t come on~ I always know when I need brake pads because you can FEEL and HEAR it!
It sounds terrible and grinds! Good LUck
If your not having those problems I would think your brake fluid is low!|||sure thing any time you have a light come on its a sign that your about to have a problem and you need to stop what ever you thing is more important and check for what ever light you have yes the light means your about out of brakes or fluid so stop driving it and check it .... the long you drive with a light on be it what ever your doing nothing but costing you more money to repair the parts..... call three places you can find in phone book and ask them about a brake job and how much it will cost .... and cheaper is not always the best go with the pplace that has been in business the longest time cause they know.... has for the price any where a round 99 buck and up depend on how bad they are wored or what damage you have done in driving it after the light come on.... brakes are what stop you think about it dont you like knowing when you come up to that light is that you have brake and are going to stop no brake is a bad thing and you dont want to know that feeling|||if you mean the light on the inside dash that will come on when the break fluid is low. check that also it would be a good time to check the brake pads as well.
Unable to fit the new drums?
Today i got a new pair of AIMCO brake drums and i was trying to replace them. After setting the adjuster to lowest limit (so that its not pushing the brake shoes too far) i was able to put the passenger side drum with slight difficulty (rear wheels). But on the driver side rear wheel, Drum just refused to get in even after fully adjusting the adjuster.
Looks like it is able to slide upto halfway and after that i have to really push it hard to slide it fully. But in this position i am just unable to move the drum (looks like shoes are tightly locked with drums).
1) Why drum is able to slide halfway on the shoes but not further? Is it a issue with the drum or the brake shoe? and how do i identify what is causing the problem?
2) Recently i did changed the brake shoes also and i assume that there is no difference between brake shoes, i mean there is nothing like which one will be leading shoe and which one will be trailing shoe. Am i correct?|||check the emergency brake cable on it ,and if necessary back it off, some someone may have adjusted it up for the brake to work better,but this has to be backed off for new shoes and drums,that%26#039;s probably the problem with it,the drum would fit on it either way you had the shoes on,but the little shoe goes to the front,good luck.|||Shoe with least amount of material should be on the front side. As for the drum, check that your emergency cable is not binding and keeping the top portion of the shoes slightly apart. You may have to back off the emergency cable.|||There is a difference between the Leading (front) and trailing (rear) shoe.
There have been times when I took new drums to the lathe to do a cleaning cut to get them to fit the shoes.
Another problem I have seen is that sometimes the shoes are not on the right part of the top anchor.
Too late now, but this is one reason that I only take one side apart at a time (or use a camera) and/or have the manual for the car I am working on.|||depending on the type car you are working on and the type brake system it has; you may have a long and short shoe, or all the same. most older cars used %26quot;self energizing %26quot; brakes which used the different lengths. most imports and newer vehicles use non self energizing systems which use equal length shoes. they are easily identified by looking at the bottom where they hook up. self energizers use the adjuster assembly to %26quot;float%26quot; the shoe set and non self energizing usually butt against a solid spacer on the bottom. if the shoes look like what was on it before, new ones should fit and accept drums easily when adjusted to the lowest setting. sounds like you have a parking brake cable that has been adjusted too tightly and is holding the shoes apart, or a frozen park brake cable or acuator that will do the same thing. check this part of the system closely and repair it as necessary and i%26#039;m betting the prob is solved. there is also the chance a wheel cylinder has stuck and is not allowing the shoes to return to full rest position, if thats the case, replace those as well to cure the fit and make a safe brake job. good luck to you and hope i%26#039;ve helped.
gary|||need to know what kind of car sounds like a dodge stratus to me they are known for the brake hoses going bad and holding pressure on the wheel cylinder so the shoes don%26#039;t go in all the way.. this can also burn off the shoes in less than 3000 miles..
on some braking systems there is a short shoe and a long shoe the one with the less lining (short shoe) goes toward the front of the car..|||Did you turn the new drums? New drums have a protective glaze and need a %26quot;Finish Cut%26quot; befor they are installed.
Looks like it is able to slide upto halfway and after that i have to really push it hard to slide it fully. But in this position i am just unable to move the drum (looks like shoes are tightly locked with drums).
1) Why drum is able to slide halfway on the shoes but not further? Is it a issue with the drum or the brake shoe? and how do i identify what is causing the problem?
2) Recently i did changed the brake shoes also and i assume that there is no difference between brake shoes, i mean there is nothing like which one will be leading shoe and which one will be trailing shoe. Am i correct?|||check the emergency brake cable on it ,and if necessary back it off, some someone may have adjusted it up for the brake to work better,but this has to be backed off for new shoes and drums,that%26#039;s probably the problem with it,the drum would fit on it either way you had the shoes on,but the little shoe goes to the front,good luck.|||Shoe with least amount of material should be on the front side. As for the drum, check that your emergency cable is not binding and keeping the top portion of the shoes slightly apart. You may have to back off the emergency cable.|||There is a difference between the Leading (front) and trailing (rear) shoe.
There have been times when I took new drums to the lathe to do a cleaning cut to get them to fit the shoes.
Another problem I have seen is that sometimes the shoes are not on the right part of the top anchor.
Too late now, but this is one reason that I only take one side apart at a time (or use a camera) and/or have the manual for the car I am working on.|||depending on the type car you are working on and the type brake system it has; you may have a long and short shoe, or all the same. most older cars used %26quot;self energizing %26quot; brakes which used the different lengths. most imports and newer vehicles use non self energizing systems which use equal length shoes. they are easily identified by looking at the bottom where they hook up. self energizers use the adjuster assembly to %26quot;float%26quot; the shoe set and non self energizing usually butt against a solid spacer on the bottom. if the shoes look like what was on it before, new ones should fit and accept drums easily when adjusted to the lowest setting. sounds like you have a parking brake cable that has been adjusted too tightly and is holding the shoes apart, or a frozen park brake cable or acuator that will do the same thing. check this part of the system closely and repair it as necessary and i%26#039;m betting the prob is solved. there is also the chance a wheel cylinder has stuck and is not allowing the shoes to return to full rest position, if thats the case, replace those as well to cure the fit and make a safe brake job. good luck to you and hope i%26#039;ve helped.
gary|||need to know what kind of car sounds like a dodge stratus to me they are known for the brake hoses going bad and holding pressure on the wheel cylinder so the shoes don%26#039;t go in all the way.. this can also burn off the shoes in less than 3000 miles..
on some braking systems there is a short shoe and a long shoe the one with the less lining (short shoe) goes toward the front of the car..|||Did you turn the new drums? New drums have a protective glaze and need a %26quot;Finish Cut%26quot; befor they are installed.
I have a 1995 Honda Accord with rear shoe brakes, I have looked at them before and they are almost gone.......
.........I need them to be changed, it costs a lot of money to change them, and, I don%26#039;t want to pay over 150 just to change my brakes, which I already have. Is it easy to change rear shoes on a 95 honda accord 4 door? or not? Is there a website that shows how to do it step by step, please reply, thanks!!!!!!!!!!!|||It is easy if you have someone show you how to do it. I would not recommend doing it for the first time right out of the book.
Your Chilton%26#039;s manual for that car has a step-by-step procedure to replace the shoes. Do one side at a time, leaving the other side as is to compare the placement of the springs and self-adjusters. You also need to look at the wearing surface inside the drums and see if they need to be turned. If they have been turned too many times, they will need to be replaced. If it is simply resurfacing the shoes and drums, you should not have to pay more than $100 per axle (both sides). If it is determined that you need wheel cylinders or other parts, $150 is reasonable and you can count on paying more.|||It is easy. I%26#039;m sure there%26#039;s a website. Honda%26#039;s are notorious for their bad brakes, so it%26#039;s not a bad skill to know.
Why did I get thumbs down? I love Hondas. They are great cars, except that their brakes wear quickly...and I%26#039;ve always had to replace an exhaust on each Honda I have owned.|||it is not very difficult.mt advise is only change one side at at time so you have a working model if you get confused in reassembly.|||Autozone can give you a printout with pics of how to do it.|||its not that hard of a job to do ,if i was you id invest in a good repair manual ,some shops do charge a lot of money for doing this,with the manual it will help you do this job and others ,there are sites that show this but the illustrations they give are very vague at best,and don%26#039;t help that much,a good manual will be around for along time,and will even help you to tune your own car up.its worth the 15 bucks it cost,get a Haynes manual if you buy one their the best for this purpose,good luck with it hope this helps.|||its not that hard take off the wheel and drum on both sides use one side as a guide. the brakes are held on by a spring loaded clip. get a chilton or haynes from an auto store or better yet free from a library for the step by step make sure you pay attention to the location of everything you can do it good luck|||As a mechanic, I%26#039;d say it%26#039;s rated as pretty straight forward. It always helps to have the right tools and correct instructions. Also, on the wheel cylinders, pull back the boots carefully and if any fluid seeps out, the wheel cylinders will need replacement too and that will additionally require bleeding the brakes. Also, while the drums are off, you%26#039;ll want to clean, inspect and repack or replace the wheel bearings and install fresh bearing seals. Do yourself a favor and get a repair manual from the parts store. Get quality parts, not the cheap stuff from auto zone for gods sake. And lastly, if you aren%26#039;t pretty comfortable doing the job, think of this, would you let your Mom drive the car or your sweetheart drive it after you did the work? If you hesitated answering that question, have a professional do it. I have seen more people make dangerous repairs due to lack of knowledge or cheap corner store parts and brakes are nothing to mess with. That%26#039;s what keeps your car from *** ending some truck on the roadway etc.
If you paid $150-$200 for a job that is done right and warrantied, think of all the time you%26#039;d spend doing it yourself.. I%26#039;d bet you could take that time and do what you are a professional at and make the money. I have an old saying between a friend of mine who is a roofer. I am always fixing his f ups on his car. I told him, I won%26#039;t touch the roof on my house if you don%26#039;t touch your car. So, he fixes my roof (professionally) and I fix the cars. (professionally) just a thought|||take it to auto zone,they will hook up the scan tool and check for codes,tell them that my ex husband sent you and they may even fix it for free,or you can buy a haynes manual for $20 and it will show you everything,don%26#039;t forget to change your air and fuel filters too,good luck,hope this helps
Your Chilton%26#039;s manual for that car has a step-by-step procedure to replace the shoes. Do one side at a time, leaving the other side as is to compare the placement of the springs and self-adjusters. You also need to look at the wearing surface inside the drums and see if they need to be turned. If they have been turned too many times, they will need to be replaced. If it is simply resurfacing the shoes and drums, you should not have to pay more than $100 per axle (both sides). If it is determined that you need wheel cylinders or other parts, $150 is reasonable and you can count on paying more.|||It is easy. I%26#039;m sure there%26#039;s a website. Honda%26#039;s are notorious for their bad brakes, so it%26#039;s not a bad skill to know.
Why did I get thumbs down? I love Hondas. They are great cars, except that their brakes wear quickly...and I%26#039;ve always had to replace an exhaust on each Honda I have owned.|||it is not very difficult.mt advise is only change one side at at time so you have a working model if you get confused in reassembly.|||Autozone can give you a printout with pics of how to do it.|||its not that hard of a job to do ,if i was you id invest in a good repair manual ,some shops do charge a lot of money for doing this,with the manual it will help you do this job and others ,there are sites that show this but the illustrations they give are very vague at best,and don%26#039;t help that much,a good manual will be around for along time,and will even help you to tune your own car up.its worth the 15 bucks it cost,get a Haynes manual if you buy one their the best for this purpose,good luck with it hope this helps.|||its not that hard take off the wheel and drum on both sides use one side as a guide. the brakes are held on by a spring loaded clip. get a chilton or haynes from an auto store or better yet free from a library for the step by step make sure you pay attention to the location of everything you can do it good luck|||As a mechanic, I%26#039;d say it%26#039;s rated as pretty straight forward. It always helps to have the right tools and correct instructions. Also, on the wheel cylinders, pull back the boots carefully and if any fluid seeps out, the wheel cylinders will need replacement too and that will additionally require bleeding the brakes. Also, while the drums are off, you%26#039;ll want to clean, inspect and repack or replace the wheel bearings and install fresh bearing seals. Do yourself a favor and get a repair manual from the parts store. Get quality parts, not the cheap stuff from auto zone for gods sake. And lastly, if you aren%26#039;t pretty comfortable doing the job, think of this, would you let your Mom drive the car or your sweetheart drive it after you did the work? If you hesitated answering that question, have a professional do it. I have seen more people make dangerous repairs due to lack of knowledge or cheap corner store parts and brakes are nothing to mess with. That%26#039;s what keeps your car from *** ending some truck on the roadway etc.
If you paid $150-$200 for a job that is done right and warrantied, think of all the time you%26#039;d spend doing it yourself.. I%26#039;d bet you could take that time and do what you are a professional at and make the money. I have an old saying between a friend of mine who is a roofer. I am always fixing his f ups on his car. I told him, I won%26#039;t touch the roof on my house if you don%26#039;t touch your car. So, he fixes my roof (professionally) and I fix the cars. (professionally) just a thought|||take it to auto zone,they will hook up the scan tool and check for codes,tell them that my ex husband sent you and they may even fix it for free,or you can buy a haynes manual for $20 and it will show you everything,don%26#039;t forget to change your air and fuel filters too,good luck,hope this helps
How do you change the brakes on an 84 honda big red 3 wheeler?Please Help!!!?
i took the wheel off but i can%26#039;t get the two bolts off of the axal to get to where the brake shoes are at.|||last time I looked Honda didn%26#039;t make 3 wheel CARS..you need another aisle..not this one...this one is for CARS.
How to remove escort van rear wheel hub (2002)?
Hi ,i have a 2002 escort diesel van,i have changed brake shoes on other vehicles before, but when i took wheel off i discovered no screws to remove and the grease cap will not come off,i have attempted but will damage if i continue,wont come off,think it doesnt unless hub is off? can anyone help? thanks and Merry Xmas !|||The cap does come off and you%26#039;ll find the normal cotter pin and retaining nut.
Try using a large pair of channel locks or pliers.
%26quot;BRILLIANT%26quot;!!!!|||take it to a repair shop!!! they should know how.
Try using a large pair of channel locks or pliers.
%26quot;BRILLIANT%26quot;!!!!|||take it to a repair shop!!! they should know how.
Kia Sedona brake change?
I have a Kia Sedona (Diesel) and need to replace the follwing:
Rear Brake shoes
Front Discs
Front pads
Just my luck that for some reason Haynes do not do a manual for my vehicle so if anyone has an idiots guide on how to do the above I would be most grateful.|||Look @ www.ehow.com for detailed instructions
Rear Brake shoes
Front Discs
Front pads
Just my luck that for some reason Haynes do not do a manual for my vehicle so if anyone has an idiots guide on how to do the above I would be most grateful.|||Look @ www.ehow.com for detailed instructions
How to change vauxhall vectra brake shoe?
You have to remove rear discs they work on the inside and actuate your hand brake.
How to adjust the rear brakes on a 1991 Mazda Protege?
I changed its brake shoes but is braking with the pedal too low, almost in the floor. I tried braking suddenly during reverse several times, but nothing happens. I have heard that they are supposed to self-adjust. Im not sure about that.
Thanks!|||Did you bleed the system after replacing the shoes and such? That would explain the low pedal.I recommend getting a shop manual for the car. It is a good investment for the do it yourself mechanic and will pay for itself in money saved.
Thanks!|||Did you bleed the system after replacing the shoes and such? That would explain the low pedal.I recommend getting a shop manual for the car. It is a good investment for the do it yourself mechanic and will pay for itself in money saved.
How much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?
01 Dodge Neon how much do you think they would charge to replace both rotors both drums and both pads and shoes.
Just labor and stuff. Dont includethe price of the parts !|||Both sides meaning both backs or both fronts?Most places charge around $100 an hour for labor (dealerships) should be about 3 hours labor for rears.|||Probably somewhere around $250 just for labor as most shops charge around $50 an hour for labor and it%26#039;s going to be in the shop for at least that.|||depending on if u wanted the drums and rotors turned or replaced.....the shop i worked at would have charged like this: turned with replacing pads in the front would have been 2.2 hours, turning drums and replacing shoes would have been 2.5---so 4.7 hours x 85 dollars an hour = 399.50 in labor----having them replaced would have been 1.5 x 85 and then 2.0 x 85 so that would be 297.50---thats all labor prices....so kind of expect something close to that|||a cheap mechanic would charge you 60 to 80 bucks - if your going to a shop- your talking over 150 on a good day on a bad day (for the mechanic) 300 bucks|||Labour
Front pads - 1.0
Front slider service - 0.6
R%26amp;R Front rotors - 0.2
R%26amp;R Rear brake drums - 0.2 (Machine drums 0.6)
Rear brake clean and adjust - 0.6
Just labor and stuff. Dont includethe price of the parts !|||Both sides meaning both backs or both fronts?Most places charge around $100 an hour for labor (dealerships) should be about 3 hours labor for rears.|||Probably somewhere around $250 just for labor as most shops charge around $50 an hour for labor and it%26#039;s going to be in the shop for at least that.|||depending on if u wanted the drums and rotors turned or replaced.....the shop i worked at would have charged like this: turned with replacing pads in the front would have been 2.2 hours, turning drums and replacing shoes would have been 2.5---so 4.7 hours x 85 dollars an hour = 399.50 in labor----having them replaced would have been 1.5 x 85 and then 2.0 x 85 so that would be 297.50---thats all labor prices....so kind of expect something close to that|||a cheap mechanic would charge you 60 to 80 bucks - if your going to a shop- your talking over 150 on a good day on a bad day (for the mechanic) 300 bucks|||Labour
Front pads - 1.0
Front slider service - 0.6
R%26amp;R Front rotors - 0.2
R%26amp;R Rear brake drums - 0.2 (Machine drums 0.6)
Rear brake clean and adjust - 0.6
Brake shoe?
1. how do you know when the brake shoe need to be change?
2. would replace new brake shoe help better stopping?
3. how long until next brake shoe change in miles?|||Squealing or grinding for starters. You need to look at them and see how much lineing they have. Some cars have bake pads on the front and shoes on the rear unless it 4 wheel disc brakes. Replacing the pads or shoes maybe both will help you stop better. The life of the pads depend mostly on your driving habits. If you use your brakes alot youll use up the pads or shoes quicker. Cant give a mileage. hope this helps|||1, BEFORE IT STARTS GRINDING, CHECK AT ROTATE INTERVAL
2. NOT IF OLD ONES WERE OK.
3. DEPENDS ON DRIVER HABIT. USALLY 30 TO 45K MILES|||%26quot;Rear brake shoes last considerably longer than disc brake pads on most vehicles... Some vehicles could have in excess of 80,000 miles on them before the rear shoes need to be replaced.%26quot;
2. would replace new brake shoe help better stopping?
3. how long until next brake shoe change in miles?|||Squealing or grinding for starters. You need to look at them and see how much lineing they have. Some cars have bake pads on the front and shoes on the rear unless it 4 wheel disc brakes. Replacing the pads or shoes maybe both will help you stop better. The life of the pads depend mostly on your driving habits. If you use your brakes alot youll use up the pads or shoes quicker. Cant give a mileage. hope this helps|||1, BEFORE IT STARTS GRINDING, CHECK AT ROTATE INTERVAL
2. NOT IF OLD ONES WERE OK.
3. DEPENDS ON DRIVER HABIT. USALLY 30 TO 45K MILES|||%26quot;Rear brake shoes last considerably longer than disc brake pads on most vehicles... Some vehicles could have in excess of 80,000 miles on them before the rear shoes need to be replaced.%26quot;
How do you remove the bolt to the housing that holds the rear brake shoes on a 2000 chevy silverado 1500 z-71.
I have changed brakes on previous vehicles and the bolt came right out. This one will loosen but it only goes so far and just spins. The threads are still intact.|||Is it a captured bolt, meaning that it was not designed to come out of the housing? You loosen the bolts and then push the caliper in and lift it off the rotor. Then to remove the rotor to have it turned you have to take the mounting bracket off the truck with two bolts that tend to be extremely tight.
I dont feel any problem when I drive, but the auto shop says I need to change all 4 brakes, shoes bla bla bla.
It is ford windstar 2000. Could anyone tell me how may know really when I need to change?|||On all brake shoes there is a little piece of metal that will drag on the brake disc causing a high pitch squeal when it needs to be replaced.
You can%26#039;t miss that squealing, it like a little alarm that your brakes needs changing, although it is safe to drive with a squealing brake for a while.
I guess things are slow around their mechanic shop, and they need to sell some repairs........if you don%26#039;t hear the loud squeal your in good shape......its like scraping your fingernails across a black board.|||When they make a scraping noise/sensation when applied... and front brakes always go out before rear ones.|||well if they are warn, u may not realise but sometimes when the braking feels funny when ur driving its a kinda, wops too late job...check at another garage if u are unsure, get a few different places to take a look an see..plus then u might find one who will do em cheaper if they really do need to be done!|||hmmm.. you might want to try another shop and compare whats wrong with your car. They might be playing you. Ask another shop to inspect your car.|||you%26#039;ll hear them squeaking|||the shop is just trying to get you to pay for something you dont need. i would suggest taking it to another shop and asking them if you need new brakes. you can usually tell when you need to change because the pedal will feel spongy and you wont stop as quickly as before.|||is You have never done it on that vehicle.
You better decipher the bla,bla,bla,
You don%26#039;t feel it but is coming. big time.You will not only feel it You also will regret it.
You are over due by a couple of years.|||Get a second opinion. I can tell by looking but dont know how to tell you to tell by looking. Brake shops are bad about lying.|||when they are wore more than 3/4 of the way down. the fronts ones wear out before the back. i would get another shop to look at it. breaks are nothing to play with when they need to be fixed fix them. you might get in a wreck if not.|||Ask people at work or church or some social occasion for their recommendations. Who do they trust? Take it to someone else for a second opinion.|||Of course they are going to say that. It%26#039;s an easy fix to them, profitable, %26amp; they always find extra crap wrong w/ the car even if it%26#039;s ok. Find someone you trust %26amp; pull the brakes yourself. It%26#039;s not that hard, just a little time consuming. I bought a good set of front brakes for a 2004 Aveo a year ago %26amp; it only cost me the $50 %26amp; 2 hrs of my day. No big deal.|||If you wait until you notice something with your brakes, then you have usually waited too long and caused more damage, and then would need more expensive work done. Brake pads wear out. You can check them yourself, and see if the pads are low.
And I have had plenty of cars that I did not hear the %26quot;squeal%26quot; ...but it was still time to replace the pads.|||Just heed the warning that you have been given! If you don%26#039;t trust them, either look for yourself or look while a repairer is looking.
That all seems OK doesn%26#039;t mean everything is OK. Ignoring repairs when needed will end with even more expensive bills to fix, believe me, linings and/ or pads are cheap compared with brake discs/ drums, and caliper damage is a real possibility.
The worst case I heard of was a driver who not only wore out the pads, but then wore away the pad backing plate and was well on the way to wearing out the caliper pistons!|||on the back shoes, the reason you cant feel any difference, is that they keep adjusting up everytime you back up, you have to keep checking on them every so often, and the front pads, pull the wheels off and check the pads, if they are down, change them, or a squeeler on the pads will let you know, also look at the master cylinder, as the pads wear , the master cylinder fluid keeps going down.|||The wear pad indicator is at bare minimum,meaning you have to replace them now, thats when all the lining is worn down,so going by that theory it would mean your already too late.Like others stated nomally the front brakes wear before the rear,however if its been more than 4 years,it might not be a bad idea,depending on their condition.On your brake pads (front) you should have more than 1/8 inch of lining and on the brake shoes(rear) you should have more than 1/16 inch or less of lining.If their less then they need replacing.Good Luck
You can%26#039;t miss that squealing, it like a little alarm that your brakes needs changing, although it is safe to drive with a squealing brake for a while.
I guess things are slow around their mechanic shop, and they need to sell some repairs........if you don%26#039;t hear the loud squeal your in good shape......its like scraping your fingernails across a black board.|||When they make a scraping noise/sensation when applied... and front brakes always go out before rear ones.|||well if they are warn, u may not realise but sometimes when the braking feels funny when ur driving its a kinda, wops too late job...check at another garage if u are unsure, get a few different places to take a look an see..plus then u might find one who will do em cheaper if they really do need to be done!|||hmmm.. you might want to try another shop and compare whats wrong with your car. They might be playing you. Ask another shop to inspect your car.|||you%26#039;ll hear them squeaking|||the shop is just trying to get you to pay for something you dont need. i would suggest taking it to another shop and asking them if you need new brakes. you can usually tell when you need to change because the pedal will feel spongy and you wont stop as quickly as before.|||is You have never done it on that vehicle.
You better decipher the bla,bla,bla,
You don%26#039;t feel it but is coming. big time.You will not only feel it You also will regret it.
You are over due by a couple of years.|||Get a second opinion. I can tell by looking but dont know how to tell you to tell by looking. Brake shops are bad about lying.|||when they are wore more than 3/4 of the way down. the fronts ones wear out before the back. i would get another shop to look at it. breaks are nothing to play with when they need to be fixed fix them. you might get in a wreck if not.|||Ask people at work or church or some social occasion for their recommendations. Who do they trust? Take it to someone else for a second opinion.|||Of course they are going to say that. It%26#039;s an easy fix to them, profitable, %26amp; they always find extra crap wrong w/ the car even if it%26#039;s ok. Find someone you trust %26amp; pull the brakes yourself. It%26#039;s not that hard, just a little time consuming. I bought a good set of front brakes for a 2004 Aveo a year ago %26amp; it only cost me the $50 %26amp; 2 hrs of my day. No big deal.|||If you wait until you notice something with your brakes, then you have usually waited too long and caused more damage, and then would need more expensive work done. Brake pads wear out. You can check them yourself, and see if the pads are low.
And I have had plenty of cars that I did not hear the %26quot;squeal%26quot; ...but it was still time to replace the pads.|||Just heed the warning that you have been given! If you don%26#039;t trust them, either look for yourself or look while a repairer is looking.
That all seems OK doesn%26#039;t mean everything is OK. Ignoring repairs when needed will end with even more expensive bills to fix, believe me, linings and/ or pads are cheap compared with brake discs/ drums, and caliper damage is a real possibility.
The worst case I heard of was a driver who not only wore out the pads, but then wore away the pad backing plate and was well on the way to wearing out the caliper pistons!|||on the back shoes, the reason you cant feel any difference, is that they keep adjusting up everytime you back up, you have to keep checking on them every so often, and the front pads, pull the wheels off and check the pads, if they are down, change them, or a squeeler on the pads will let you know, also look at the master cylinder, as the pads wear , the master cylinder fluid keeps going down.|||The wear pad indicator is at bare minimum,meaning you have to replace them now, thats when all the lining is worn down,so going by that theory it would mean your already too late.Like others stated nomally the front brakes wear before the rear,however if its been more than 4 years,it might not be a bad idea,depending on their condition.On your brake pads (front) you should have more than 1/8 inch of lining and on the brake shoes(rear) you should have more than 1/16 inch or less of lining.If their less then they need replacing.Good Luck
How do I change the hand brake rear brake shoes on 1997 Iveco Daily?
How do I change the hand brake rear brake shoes on 1997 Iveco Daily? I have the shoes and springs kit etc but the person who is doing the job has said I need a 68mm socket to do the job. As I%26#039;m in France I haven%26#039;t a clue if this true or not and can%26#039;t seem to get a 68mm socket anywhere anyway. Does ayone know if this socket is really needed and, if so, what it%26#039;s for. They don%26#039;t seem to know much about Iveco Dailys here. Thanks|||6 or 8mm socket more like a 10mm you wouldnt hav e any nuts or bolts 68mm any where on such a small truck maybe a train might carry something that big an dif then it be few hundred bucks just for the socket
better ask the person again
i work on big rig trucks and many of them dont even have that big of bolts 44mm biggest i got thats about 1inch and a half never seen your truck but id guess it doesnt have any nuts that big anywhere
better ask the person again
i work on big rig trucks and many of them dont even have that big of bolts 44mm biggest i got thats about 1inch and a half never seen your truck but id guess it doesnt have any nuts that big anywhere
How to change wheel cylinder on a 2000 plymouth voyager?
can someone please give me a step by step guide on how to do this? I also have to change the brake shoes. thanks|||look at these, it also helpfull to take pictures of the springs and the way they go with a digital camera before you take anything apart, so you can refer back to them when replacing.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4996060_replace-鈥?/a>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMYAORTwA鈥?/a>|||Randy ishere gives some very helpful how to hints for the job you are doing that would be hard to top. I would also offer another piece of advice. Do only one side at a time that way you have a model to look at while you do the other side. I have been a mechanic for a long time and when doing brake work on a vehicle I was not completely familiar with that is what I always do and you can%26#039;t go wrong because you can always look at the other side to make sure things are just where the way they should be.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4996060_replace-鈥?/a>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMYAORTwA鈥?/a>|||Randy ishere gives some very helpful how to hints for the job you are doing that would be hard to top. I would also offer another piece of advice. Do only one side at a time that way you have a model to look at while you do the other side. I have been a mechanic for a long time and when doing brake work on a vehicle I was not completely familiar with that is what I always do and you can%26#039;t go wrong because you can always look at the other side to make sure things are just where the way they should be.
How to inspect/change a mopeds rear brake shoes?
The rear brake on my piaggio typhoon 125 is not as strong and there is alot of free play on the left brake lever. Im guessing it needs new brake shoes as it is a drum brake. I tried tightening the cable underneath the kick start casing but that doesnt seem to work.
Is there any sites to show how to change or inspect brake shoes or can someone tell me simply how to do it as im a newbie with typhoon bikes.|||contact me through my avatar..ive a site you can download a manual for free,but im not listing it on here.|||well really not much to them should be able to go buy new brake shoes or pads from dealer if you cant adjust it any more then good bet they gone jack it up and remove wheel or brakes pretty much it just take it apart and replace shoe and put it back like you remove it|||Your best bet is to splash out and buy the piaggio/ haynes owners manual (about 拢20) for that particular model, as some information on the net may not be relevant to your bike.|||You have to remove the wheel to be able to remove the brake shoe carrier from the drum. You can then see the wear material on the shoes.
It may be that the cable has stretched and could need replacement.
There may be an adjuster on the end where it goes onto the lever on the brake drum ( at the wheel).
Some play is necessary - no play on a bike/scooter means that the brake can apply when going over a bump and some movement needs to happen firstly putting on the brake light switch just before applying the brake.
Whatever you do ensure proper operation of the brake light as a smack from the rear could have very serious consequences.
Good luck
Is there any sites to show how to change or inspect brake shoes or can someone tell me simply how to do it as im a newbie with typhoon bikes.|||contact me through my avatar..ive a site you can download a manual for free,but im not listing it on here.|||well really not much to them should be able to go buy new brake shoes or pads from dealer if you cant adjust it any more then good bet they gone jack it up and remove wheel or brakes pretty much it just take it apart and replace shoe and put it back like you remove it|||Your best bet is to splash out and buy the piaggio/ haynes owners manual (about 拢20) for that particular model, as some information on the net may not be relevant to your bike.|||You have to remove the wheel to be able to remove the brake shoe carrier from the drum. You can then see the wear material on the shoes.
It may be that the cable has stretched and could need replacement.
There may be an adjuster on the end where it goes onto the lever on the brake drum ( at the wheel).
Some play is necessary - no play on a bike/scooter means that the brake can apply when going over a bump and some movement needs to happen firstly putting on the brake light switch just before applying the brake.
Whatever you do ensure proper operation of the brake light as a smack from the rear could have very serious consequences.
Good luck
How do you take the drum off to change the rear brakes on a1997 nissan altima?
trying to change brakes shoes on a 1997 nissan altima|||The drum is rusted on the hub.
You need to get a hammer and hit the drum rite on bottom and top,
and it should brake loose.Than you can take it off.|||There should be a 2 threaded holes on the hub,look for a bolt that matches it.Thread it in at the same time and as you tighten it,the hub should loosen and come out.
You need to get a hammer and hit the drum rite on bottom and top,
and it should brake loose.Than you can take it off.|||There should be a 2 threaded holes on the hub,look for a bolt that matches it.Thread it in at the same time and as you tighten it,the hub should loosen and come out.
How to change the rear brake shoes on a 99 ford ranger xlt?
im changing the brakes on a 99 ford ranger xlt but i did something wrong please help hurry|||o wow did SOMETHING??? wrong.
ok anyway if you still have the front breaks(and everything is installed and your sure you don%26#039;t have the bleeders open or any leaks) carefully take it down to your local tuffy, midas etc for a free estimate.
They will know what you did wrong
It probably just needs adjustment
when doing breaks always do one side at a time that way you can compare it to the other when finished.
goodluck
ok anyway if you still have the front breaks(and everything is installed and your sure you don%26#039;t have the bleeders open or any leaks) carefully take it down to your local tuffy, midas etc for a free estimate.
They will know what you did wrong
It probably just needs adjustment
when doing breaks always do one side at a time that way you can compare it to the other when finished.
goodluck
How do take the rear hub off to change the brake shoes?
Vehicle on axle stands,wheels removed,drums knocked out for most models.
Change one side at a time to copy on spring fittings.
Also remember about leading and trailing shoes.
Change one side at a time to copy on spring fittings.
Also remember about leading and trailing shoes.
Need video to know how to change rear brake shoes?
http://autorepair.about.com/|||I don%26#039;t know of a video but there are manuals available for pretty well every vehicle made. If you require a video I suggest you take it to a shop. I can bet you don%26#039;t have a lathe to turn the drums plus other tools and the expertise for this job. Remember you are not only playing with your own life but that of others when you are dealing with brakes. 40 years in the business and seen to many back yard screw ups. Bob|||Really not a job for the novice alone. Get experienced help or get a Chiltons and/or Haynes manual on your specific car. Best to let a pro do it while you watch.|||if you dont know how to do it, you need to get a qualified mechanic for the job
How to change rear brake shoes on a 2002 montana?
i got you covered for free- try autozone.com and use the guides for free-type in your make and model and itll bring up everything you need along with diagrams/drawings and photos of repairing your vehicle step-by-step...ive used it recentetly to rebuild my wheel bearing- located int he axle - shop told me $300 to repair- i did it for $87!! Good Luck!!|||Best bet is to buy a Haynes or Chilton manual. For about $20 you will get a step by step and also help with lots of other repair items.
How to change rear drum brake shoes on shaft drive motorcycle?
I recently purchased a 1981 yamaha seca 750 that nees new shoes on the rear brake. I am wondering if this is a tough thing to do and if I need to take the back tire off to do this?|||I%26#039;m with Choppy %26amp; Bear. If you attempt to perform this work without a manual and only use advice from an internet posting well...who%26#039;s the fool?
step one: GET A SHOP MANUAL
step two: Read the SHOP MANUAL
step three: Understand the SHOP MANUAL
at this point if you do not understand the manual it would be appropriate to ask questions.
step four: Follow the SHOP MANUAL
Getting the picture?|||you will almost definitely have to remove the rear wheel (not tyre, but entire wheel) if it has a double sided swingarm, I believe this model does.
This isn%26#039;t too hard if you just bump it on the centre stand then its only a few bolts and it comes out. No jacking up malarkey required :)
Drums are quite simple, shouldn%26#039;t be a problem|||step one: GET A SHOP MANUAL! It has pictures and diagrams and easy to follow step by step instructions.|||Just like Chop says,...get a manual. The certified Yamaha is expensive but it is the best. Haynes has one for less than $30. It will make the job alot easier and the reality is, its a cinch; easy man. No muss, no fuss. Of course you gotta take the rear wheel off...Do remember to make sure all pivot points are lubed, but do not get any grease or lubricant of any kind on the braking surface: for obvious reasons.....|||I also agree with the above posts. Get a manual. It%26#039;s not a hard job though. Rear wheel comes off and shoes can be replaced in about 30 minutes with just a little mechanical ability.
step one: GET A SHOP MANUAL
step two: Read the SHOP MANUAL
step three: Understand the SHOP MANUAL
at this point if you do not understand the manual it would be appropriate to ask questions.
step four: Follow the SHOP MANUAL
Getting the picture?|||you will almost definitely have to remove the rear wheel (not tyre, but entire wheel) if it has a double sided swingarm, I believe this model does.
This isn%26#039;t too hard if you just bump it on the centre stand then its only a few bolts and it comes out. No jacking up malarkey required :)
Drums are quite simple, shouldn%26#039;t be a problem|||step one: GET A SHOP MANUAL! It has pictures and diagrams and easy to follow step by step instructions.|||Just like Chop says,...get a manual. The certified Yamaha is expensive but it is the best. Haynes has one for less than $30. It will make the job alot easier and the reality is, its a cinch; easy man. No muss, no fuss. Of course you gotta take the rear wheel off...Do remember to make sure all pivot points are lubed, but do not get any grease or lubricant of any kind on the braking surface: for obvious reasons.....|||I also agree with the above posts. Get a manual. It%26#039;s not a hard job though. Rear wheel comes off and shoes can be replaced in about 30 minutes with just a little mechanical ability.
How to change rear brake shoes on a 1998 camry?
i was not able to take the rear drum off...is there any trick to it...what are the steps in changing out the shoes?|||Yes there is a trick or several tricks.
First with the em.brake off and the car in Neutral.Take off the tire,using a large hammer smack the drum in between the lug studs several times,this works 99% of the time.Then tap on the back of the drum,be sure not to hit the backing plate and bending it.put both hands on the drum across from each other moving side to side pulling on the drum.It should come off.You must have some brake tools to remove the shoes.You buy these tool at a car parts place where you buy the brake shoes.They can show you what you need.They are not that costly.A repair manual can also be of help and you can buy that there also.Do one side first leave the other side on in case you don%26#039;t remember how the shoes go on.There is a primary shoe and a secondary shoe just compare them before you remove them.One shoe is longer than the other one.That is another reason not to take both sides off you can always go look at the other side.You should take both rear drums with you and have them turned at the auto parts place.Mark the drums L and R so they go back on the same side they came off of.If you do not have them turned you may experience a pulsation when braking when finished.Check for leaks (fluid)at the brake wheel cylinders,if you have one you must rebuild them or replace them.
I would for sure get a repair book.You can get a Haynes or others that are cheap.|||if you look at the drum, there are two little threaded holes on the face of the drum, get 2 long bolts and screw them in there evenly. Once they touch the bottom, turn them a couple of turns each. This will %26#039;press%26#039; the drum off the shoes/hub assembly. I don%26#039;t know what the thread pitch is on Toyota%26#039;s, you%26#039;ll prob. just have to take a look and get a few at the hardware store.
once you get the drum off, take a picture of the brake assembly, digital would be great. this will help you when you reassemble.|||These folks have covered what to do if the drum is frozen on with rust, but there may be another problem. The drums may be worn down so there is a groove the shoes are riding in now. This makes the diameter of the outside of the shoes bigger than the diameter of the drum edge. You can pound all you want, but if this is the case, you won%26#039;t pass that smaller diameter over a larger one.
There is a slot in the back of the brake housing. It should have a rubber plug on it. Remove it and you will see an adjustment ring with teeth on it.
You will have to turn this ring to bring the shoes closer together. I%26#039;m not sure which way to turn the ring, but you%26#039;ll find out. It should turn easier when you are moving them close together.
First with the em.brake off and the car in Neutral.Take off the tire,using a large hammer smack the drum in between the lug studs several times,this works 99% of the time.Then tap on the back of the drum,be sure not to hit the backing plate and bending it.put both hands on the drum across from each other moving side to side pulling on the drum.It should come off.You must have some brake tools to remove the shoes.You buy these tool at a car parts place where you buy the brake shoes.They can show you what you need.They are not that costly.A repair manual can also be of help and you can buy that there also.Do one side first leave the other side on in case you don%26#039;t remember how the shoes go on.There is a primary shoe and a secondary shoe just compare them before you remove them.One shoe is longer than the other one.That is another reason not to take both sides off you can always go look at the other side.You should take both rear drums with you and have them turned at the auto parts place.Mark the drums L and R so they go back on the same side they came off of.If you do not have them turned you may experience a pulsation when braking when finished.Check for leaks (fluid)at the brake wheel cylinders,if you have one you must rebuild them or replace them.
I would for sure get a repair book.You can get a Haynes or others that are cheap.|||if you look at the drum, there are two little threaded holes on the face of the drum, get 2 long bolts and screw them in there evenly. Once they touch the bottom, turn them a couple of turns each. This will %26#039;press%26#039; the drum off the shoes/hub assembly. I don%26#039;t know what the thread pitch is on Toyota%26#039;s, you%26#039;ll prob. just have to take a look and get a few at the hardware store.
once you get the drum off, take a picture of the brake assembly, digital would be great. this will help you when you reassemble.|||These folks have covered what to do if the drum is frozen on with rust, but there may be another problem. The drums may be worn down so there is a groove the shoes are riding in now. This makes the diameter of the outside of the shoes bigger than the diameter of the drum edge. You can pound all you want, but if this is the case, you won%26#039;t pass that smaller diameter over a larger one.
There is a slot in the back of the brake housing. It should have a rubber plug on it. Remove it and you will see an adjustment ring with teeth on it.
You will have to turn this ring to bring the shoes closer together. I%26#039;m not sure which way to turn the ring, but you%26#039;ll find out. It should turn easier when you are moving them close together.
How to change brake shoes?
If you don%26#039;t know, you better take it to the shop. It will be too late when you find out your car does not stop!|||Let me explain to you in a simple field manner.
If it is shoes in the rear...remove the hub and wash off with a hose spray nozzle and water first to get rid of the all the dust because some shoes contain asbestos.
Next thing you want to do is take your cell phone if you have a camera and take a picture of it so that you know where everything goes back when your done and for the springs I use a good pair of channel pliers and a screw driver and thats all you need for a fast do it yourself home brake job that doesn%26#039;t include turning the drums;However, if you want a class A job take the drums to a shop and have them turn them for about $8.00 a piece something like that.
Then disassemble the breaks and put the new ones on exactly the way the old ones came off.
Put your hub back and make the necessary adjustment.
What I normally do is turn the wheel until it is tight on the adjustment and then back off three turns.....YOUR DONE!! Do the other side the same way.|||you asked this twice,and we need to know what car or truck,because they are different on each vehicle.|||trick question huh? brakes dont have shoes they have PADS
If it is shoes in the rear...remove the hub and wash off with a hose spray nozzle and water first to get rid of the all the dust because some shoes contain asbestos.
Next thing you want to do is take your cell phone if you have a camera and take a picture of it so that you know where everything goes back when your done and for the springs I use a good pair of channel pliers and a screw driver and thats all you need for a fast do it yourself home brake job that doesn%26#039;t include turning the drums;However, if you want a class A job take the drums to a shop and have them turn them for about $8.00 a piece something like that.
Then disassemble the breaks and put the new ones on exactly the way the old ones came off.
Put your hub back and make the necessary adjustment.
What I normally do is turn the wheel until it is tight on the adjustment and then back off three turns.....YOUR DONE!! Do the other side the same way.|||you asked this twice,and we need to know what car or truck,because they are different on each vehicle.|||trick question huh? brakes dont have shoes they have PADS
How to change brake shoes on a piaggio typhoon 125cc moped?
My rear brake is not at all strong and there is alot of freeplay on the left lever. I have tightened the brake wire under the engine case to the fullest and there is no difference, so im assuming its the brake shoes worn out. (Its not a disc brake its a drum brake)
To change the brake shoes what will i need to do. Will i need to loosen the wire, then change the shoes, then tighten the wire back up?|||contact me via my avitar...ill give you a link for a free manual download...|||slow down, you probably dont need new brakes, there adjuster you need to tighten is on the brake drum lever, its just a nut that is screwed onto the actuating rod, you will see its threaded for 2 or 3 inches, you should just need to screw it in, if its that loose, you will probably have to screw it further on quite a bit, like 1/2 to 1 cm.
To change the brake shoes what will i need to do. Will i need to loosen the wire, then change the shoes, then tighten the wire back up?|||contact me via my avitar...ill give you a link for a free manual download...|||slow down, you probably dont need new brakes, there adjuster you need to tighten is on the brake drum lever, its just a nut that is screwed onto the actuating rod, you will see its threaded for 2 or 3 inches, you should just need to screw it in, if its that loose, you will probably have to screw it further on quite a bit, like 1/2 to 1 cm.
I need to know how to change brake shoes on 63 impala.?
Can someone help with changing the brake shoes on my 63 impala? Also how to adjust the brakes. When I put it in park the car still wants to roll. Sometimes even with e-brake on!!!!|||easy man just type into search box
how to replace brake shoes
how to replace brake shoes video
how to replace drum brakes
pretty much al you need wil be a pair of vice grips to look on the springs pull springs pair a pliars to twist spring caps adjuster just screws in and how drum shoul dfit tight but not hard to psuh back on after wards to adjust replace wheel and wrok thru slot on back of til its hard to sping wheel with one hand easy anyway this site you can see how its done and even look up more repairs videos|||Jeremy, the brakes on an old Chevy are about as basic as it gets. You just need to get in there, and get your hands dirty. You might want to find a friend who has tinkered with brakes before. Buy him a 6 pak and spend an afternoon learning what makes your car stop. It%26#039;s more important than making it go. Good luck.|||First thing not to do is tear down more than one set of brakes at a time! If you get confused you can look at the other side for Reference, It%26#039;s much easier if you have a brake spring tool( There cheap at sears) The lining on one shoe will be a little shorter than the other,(This is called the trailing shoe.) It Always installs on the back side of the backing plate, In other words toward the rear of the vehicle. Adjustment is achieved by turning the self adjuster either clockwise or counterclockwise.(Located at the bottom of the shoes,Holding the bottom of the shoes apart),It will have a little wheel on it that looks like a boot spur. E brake is adjusted by the turnbuckle on the E brake cable running under the car to the rear brakes, If it still rolls when in park it may not be going into park all the way or you have a bad parking pawl inside the 2 speed powerglide transmission. This is where a 10 or 15 dollar haynes manual from an auto parts store would realy come in handy. If you get the brakes adjusted to tight and can%26#039;t get the drum back off you can stick a screwdriver into the slot on the back side of the backing plate and turn the spur wheel to loosen them. just remember, one wheel at a time. Hope this helps, back in the day, Thats the car i took my driveing test in, Loved that car, Wish i would have kept it!
how to replace brake shoes
how to replace brake shoes video
how to replace drum brakes
pretty much al you need wil be a pair of vice grips to look on the springs pull springs pair a pliars to twist spring caps adjuster just screws in and how drum shoul dfit tight but not hard to psuh back on after wards to adjust replace wheel and wrok thru slot on back of til its hard to sping wheel with one hand easy anyway this site you can see how its done and even look up more repairs videos|||Jeremy, the brakes on an old Chevy are about as basic as it gets. You just need to get in there, and get your hands dirty. You might want to find a friend who has tinkered with brakes before. Buy him a 6 pak and spend an afternoon learning what makes your car stop. It%26#039;s more important than making it go. Good luck.|||First thing not to do is tear down more than one set of brakes at a time! If you get confused you can look at the other side for Reference, It%26#039;s much easier if you have a brake spring tool( There cheap at sears) The lining on one shoe will be a little shorter than the other,(This is called the trailing shoe.) It Always installs on the back side of the backing plate, In other words toward the rear of the vehicle. Adjustment is achieved by turning the self adjuster either clockwise or counterclockwise.(Located at the bottom of the shoes,Holding the bottom of the shoes apart),It will have a little wheel on it that looks like a boot spur. E brake is adjusted by the turnbuckle on the E brake cable running under the car to the rear brakes, If it still rolls when in park it may not be going into park all the way or you have a bad parking pawl inside the 2 speed powerglide transmission. This is where a 10 or 15 dollar haynes manual from an auto parts store would realy come in handy. If you get the brakes adjusted to tight and can%26#039;t get the drum back off you can stick a screwdriver into the slot on the back side of the backing plate and turn the spur wheel to loosen them. just remember, one wheel at a time. Hope this helps, back in the day, Thats the car i took my driveing test in, Loved that car, Wish i would have kept it!
How much of a pain is it to change Brake Shoes?
Just wondering whether its worth saving the money to do it myself or if i should just go ahead and take it to the brake place|||It is not that big of a job. You will want to take your drums to a machine shop or brake shop and have them turned. This will true up the drums and you will get better service from the brakes. Only do one wheel at a time, if you get confused on how a spring goes, you can look at the other wheel and see the correct way it goes back together. good luck.|||its pretty simple job but you gotta do it right. I%26#039;d say about 30 minutes to 45 minutes.|||If they are disc brakes then the job is not bad. You will want to get the rotors resurfaced or the new pads will squeal. I just did the rear on my camry and I went to Napa and got the rotors from china and they work just fine. So new rotors for the same price of turning the old ones.
How do you change brake shoes on my jeep grand cherokee is it easy?
I jsut need to know if its relativly easy to change brake shoes on my Jeep Grand Cherokee|||If you are talking about the front brakes, they are discs, and they have pads, not shoes. They are relatively easy to change. If you are talking about the rear, then early year Jeeps did use drum brakes there, and you are correct, they are shoes.
Drum brakes are a pain in the backside if you are not familiar with them and I wouldn%26#039;t recommend you trying it if you have no experience.|||not easy for a first timer.... get experienced help, or a few estimates from shops like firestone and goodyear... brake work is highly competitive and the estimates vary a lot.|||I bet you they just need tightening
their is a star spar that can be turned using a brake tool while the car is in neutral and jacked up...WARNING the dang vehicle could fall so chock it up good. just turn the wheel with one hand while adjusting the spar star on the bottom of the wheel. this is way easier on a lift...but who want to spend money right? turn the wheel while tightening the spar till you hear the outer part of the shoe start to scrape on the drum
don%26#039;t over tighten or the brakes could lock up..just do it till you hear a slight scrape do both sides and then go drive it...you might save a buck er 2|||It is relatively easy only: if you are mechanically inclined, have the CORRECT brake tools, don%26#039;t break anything (springs, etc.) have done this kind of stuff before, and have a safe place to do this. Otherwise you are messing with a very important safety item and if you haven%26#039;t ever done something like this, should leave it to the professionals.
Drum brakes are a pain in the backside if you are not familiar with them and I wouldn%26#039;t recommend you trying it if you have no experience.|||not easy for a first timer.... get experienced help, or a few estimates from shops like firestone and goodyear... brake work is highly competitive and the estimates vary a lot.|||I bet you they just need tightening
their is a star spar that can be turned using a brake tool while the car is in neutral and jacked up...WARNING the dang vehicle could fall so chock it up good. just turn the wheel with one hand while adjusting the spar star on the bottom of the wheel. this is way easier on a lift...but who want to spend money right? turn the wheel while tightening the spar till you hear the outer part of the shoe start to scrape on the drum
don%26#039;t over tighten or the brakes could lock up..just do it till you hear a slight scrape do both sides and then go drive it...you might save a buck er 2|||It is relatively easy only: if you are mechanically inclined, have the CORRECT brake tools, don%26#039;t break anything (springs, etc.) have done this kind of stuff before, and have a safe place to do this. Otherwise you are messing with a very important safety item and if you haven%26#039;t ever done something like this, should leave it to the professionals.
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)